Any question answered...

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  • Thanks all for the light bulb help.

    It's up there as one of my least favourite things.

  • thanks, bespoke baskets is very lfgss:)

  • Anyone had any experience with battery-heated jackets/coats? By and large they seem to get favourable reviews and they're typically available on Amazon for £90-130 Mrs Pasty really struggles with the cold and reckon she'd appreciate one. Appreciate their battery life tests or at 25 degrees etc so they'll only last half what they say.

  • might not be the best place to ask, but thought it was the thread that have the best visibility for this.
    I am trying to think about a potential modification of an existing geometry.

    • frame 1 is head tube angle 75°, fork rake 45mm => trail 42mm and chainstay length + front distance =935mm
    • frame 2 is head tube angle 73.5°, fork rake 54mm => trail 42mm and chainstay length + front distance=960mm

    First proposition will be more compact (smaller wheelbase), but second will avoid much more toe overlap, but overall handling will feel the same because trail is identical, or am I completely wrong?
    or is there any other element than trail to take into consideration for the bike handling and behavior?

    calling the geometry experts and frame builders of the forum!

  • No experience with battery operated coats/socks/hand warmers like that but has Mrs Pasty investigated all the longer lasting options like Merino, Down, Possum, or if you can $tretch to Cashmere or Qiviut (Muskox)?

  • What’s a reasonable life expectancy for the hubs on QR loose bearing wheels used year-round? A 6’ 4” 95kg mate had the front wheel on his Spez hybrid go 5 years, used every day, and I think that’s pretty good but he disagrees.

  • Assuming it goes some distance every day then the rims and spokes will be fucked too* so it's nature's way of telling him to get new wheels.

    Just tell him what the cost per mile is in fractions of a shilling.

    * yes even rims that haven't been braked on.

  • In the absence of shock loads or abrasive contamination, typical size bicycle wheel bearings should go something like 45,000 miles before fatigue spalling kills them. That's 25 miles a day if you ride every day for 5 years. Of course, bicycle wheels are exposed to shock loading and abrasive contaminants, so getting even half that duration should be considered a result.

  • It also depends on how well they were sealed in the first place, if the cones have come loose at all and if they've ever been serviced. I'd be happy with 5 years daily use.

  • A friend of mine has one and he would not stop talking about it last winter. I tried it and could see why. Longevity and end-of-life disposal would be my only concerns.

  • A pal has found these pedals at his parents' house. Are the top ones Keo or Delta compatible?


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    • IMG-20201107-WA0003.jpg
  • Keo, I recon.

  • Keo

    Seems unlikely

    PP296, introduced in 1998, effectively the last Delta pedal before Keo was invented the same year


    1 Attachment

    • pp296.jpg
  • Need to bleed a set of SRAM Rival brakes, whats the go to kit for this?

    Is it this as from what I can understand theres diff connectors for certain groups? https://www.wiggle.co.uk/bleed-kit-prof-edition-sram-bleed-kit-set

    Thanks

  • Fairy snuff. I'm having second thoughts - having just looked at the Keo cleats in the drawer behind me.

  • This is the underside. Googling all the words written under there suggests Delta. Can anyone more knowledgeable confirm before I suggest he buys the wrong cleats?


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    • IMG-20201107-WA0006.jpg
  • Those will be Delta; the Decathalon ones are the best value.
    https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/delta-compatible-road-cleats-9/_/R-p-242

  • Could anyone recommend me a cheap material that is available in a range of colours that would be ideal making mudflaps and is also available to order online?

    Was thinking something like a plastic folder from a stationers etc but would prefer to order online atm.

  • Are you opposed to buying pre-made flaps? Raw flaps are excellent and come in all sorts of different colours and designs.

  • Damp proof course make good mudflaps as it has the right combination of flexibility and stiffness.
    Usually only found in black..
    https://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Water+Damp-Proofing/Damp-Proof-Course/c/1000279

  • Raw were cheaper than I remember but bike is no frills or expense spent so I'm looking for something even cheaper!

    I've used rubber offcuts from a local gasket factory previously but even when quite thick it's been too flexible at speed for riders behind, is that material quite stiff like an ass-saver?

  • can anyone give me a rough ball park figure as to how much 2 builders for 3 days might cost ? what kind of day rate should i expect to be charged

  • is that material quite stiff like an ass-saver?

    like most sheet materials, their stiffness can be modified by the addition of shaping into the equation. I put the mud flap inside the mudguard and set it so that it follows the contours thus making it stiff enough to acheive what you are looking for.

    You can shape it using hot/boiling water. It retains its profile when cool.

    The mud flap follows the profile of the mudguard and gradually opens out to the wider end.

    Not at home so cannot add a photo or two

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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