Current Projects chat and miscellany

I would be disappointed if it would fit me in the conventional way ;) . That said, it would be nice if I could reach the handlebars for example.

My vote is for flat bars and a wald basket

And a Gaston seatpost and 180mm stem

My vote is for flat bars and a wald basket

Or even a crusing handlebar :D

just to follow up on the question I had about this listing

took a punt even though the picture was off - stem turned up today and the listing picture was wrong. it is actually a nitto dynamic that's turned up, so that's good.

now to get the damned bars on : /

can't use the two pence trick sadly. compact bars keep fouling the stem just as I'm about to round the last curve. lovely stuff

Thanks for the heads up, I'll perhaps grab one of these.

For me the 2p / flat-head trick was not enough to get a Nitto Dynamic onto some Deda Piega modern compact drop bars. I think I used water as a temporary lubricant and then simply had to use brute force and scratch up the bars a little bit, didn't see any way around it.

how do you even do the 2p trick on the dynamic? the bottom part of the stem is not threaded on mine, so I can't put the 2p in, thread the bolt through the bottom part, and start pushing the stem apart. there's no way to thread the bolt in from above either, ofc

not fussed about scratching the bars at that place, really, they'll be covered in tape. will try GT85 and a mallet later I think

ooft, got them on. very tight fit around the last bend - liberal application of GT85, swearing, and mallet usage was required. bars scratched to buggery at that bend but what you gunna do

how do you even do the 2p trick on the dynamic?

If you have a particularly slender nut (?) you can use that in the middle of the clamp area to allow you to open it up with the bolt

yeah - that occurred to me a little after I'd posted. my nut supplies are low so I settled for WACKING IT WITH A BIG MALLET instead

Ah I think I misunderstood the 2p trick. I get it now.

I normally just put a flathead screwdriver between the stem clamp flats and lever the mouth open slightly. I use some inner tube rubber or thin card to make cover the sharp parts of the screwdriver. If you have big hands you can hold the body of the screwdriver and another convenient point on the stem all in one hand and squeeze. This opens the mouth. The other hand is then for bars.

I like the slender nut trick. Maybe the nut from an inner tube valve would work?

I did that once and snapped the stem head in half, never again.

Eeek! Yeah it had crossed my mind that may happen, but I've done it 20+ times without incident. You get a feel for when you're nearing the elastic limit of the alu. Or maybe I've just been reckless and lucky.

If you have a particularly slender nut

Anyone? No?

excuse me while I ask some fairly basic questions during my first bike build...

I'd taken my SRAM apex brakes off my focus cayo 2005. when I took them off, each had one spacer/grommet at brake side and a nut which screwed onto the thread from the rear.

I am transplanting these onto a 1990s steel frame. when I put the rear on, it fit fine and I was able to nip the nut up tight, with the spacer included. however, the front would not nip up and stayed loose/wobbly (the fork is not is deep on this frame as it is on my focus.) so what I've done is taken the spacer/grommet out of the rear brake (nipped that back up fine) so that I now have two spacers/grommets on the front. that let me nip up the nut finger tight. it's not super tight - tight enough that it's stiff but still 'loose' enough that I could alter brake block alignment.

my question is - will this cause me any issues at the rear or front? e.g. the front protruding too much now or the rear not enough? if so, is there another/better solution?

is there another/better solution?

Get proper length tube nuts, they come in sizes from 10mm long up to over 30mm
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/search/?term=pivot%20nut

ahhhh, makes sense. perfect thanks. assume I measure the depth of the hole in the front brake bridge, and subtract that from the length of the nut to get the right pivot nut

(:

After destroying the Cannondale in a crash I used the insurance money on an All-City for potential 2021 CX.
It is bonkers good.
Zipp's were meant for the Road bike, but couldn't get 28s to seat right, so....

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It is bonkers good

@lowbrows looks the business too.

That’s awesome.

Like this a lot

A new Reynolds 725 frame I bought came with a seatpost shim, I've never seen that before... Maybe to prevent the seatpost from getting seized? Does anyone know?

What’s the frame?