In some ways bio fuels are better for classics- and of course in others far worse.
Cars designed for leaded fuel were really just designed for higher octane fuel than standard unleaded (and potentially some super unleaded) - so the use of bio-fuels that have (in some cases much) higher octanes than 100% fossil fuel based unleaded is useful. However, the alcohol/methanol content can rot fuel lines, bits of the carb etc- but really nothing that can’t be fixed by giving the engine and fuel system a once over.
I’m a fan of the idea of running a car on what I’ve grown (and then fermented) in my garden.
Isn't it also the metallurgy or some of the older engines? I know my 83 505 I didn't need lead supplement as the valve seats were hardened and we're happy with unleaded but other older engines needed the lead as lubricant.
The funny thing is that a '69 engine ran unleaded fine, but a '72 allegedly didn't.
In the end, I ran the '72 on unleaded and waited till the valve seats started to receed and then I'd strip the head and then machine the head for larger valves as possible.
In some ways bio fuels are better for classics- and of course in others far worse.
Cars designed for leaded fuel were really just designed for higher octane fuel than standard unleaded (and potentially some super unleaded) - so the use of bio-fuels that have (in some cases much) higher octanes than 100% fossil fuel based unleaded is useful. However, the alcohol/methanol content can rot fuel lines, bits of the carb etc- but really nothing that can’t be fixed by giving the engine and fuel system a once over.
I’m a fan of the idea of running a car on what I’ve grown (and then fermented) in my garden.