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• #24777
What's an air wedge?
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• #24779
Didn't do the frames as well but for putting new doors in old frames I bought,
- Sharp chisel
- Saw horse
- Electric planer
- And doors :)
As always plenty of videos online but it's fairly straight forward.
- Sharp chisel
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• #24780
Thought that might be case but was also thinking they probably just had a silly name I didn't know. And cheese head it is! I think they'll work very well.
Thank you. -
• #24781
Thanks for the tip. I'm outside London currently as I'm wfh. But I'll add to my brainium. Thanks.
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• #24782
This is something I curse not owning every time I need it (most recently last weekend when hanging full length mirrored wardrobe doors) and then entirely forget about afterwards.
I'm going to buy one now.
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• #24783
I just pulled my oven out to measure up the hole in the countertop for a new gas hob. Turns out the oven electrical feed is via a standard plug and socket (just visible at the bottom). Is that a normal arrangement? The double socket (the other plug feeds the hob) is switched at the wall.
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• #24784
Fairly common. Lots of ovens are 13A so a socket is fine.
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• #24785
Good to know, thank you!
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• #24786
Thanks. Did you cut the hinge mortises with a router or use the chisel?
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• #24787
Air wedges are great I'm sure but there's a tool that is useful for carpentry jobs and quite a few others.
You put it under the door and stand on it. In a few cases you'll need to put something on the floor to protect it.
If you don't have one you should ask Santa. I have a few in different sizes and this is my current favourite.
https://www.rutlands.com/sp+japanese-3-way-pry-bar-200mm+M_JP1422
An alternative if you don't have a pry bar or air wedges is a chisel resting on a screwdriver handle. Then you stand on the chisel handle to raise the door.
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• #24788
I can't find the exact ones I have but pretty sure they're Mokuba like that one - same stamped rocking horse logo. Although neither has the nail pulling groove in the flat end. It's definitely worth paying extra for ones that have been properly forged as they last so much longer. I've been ragging on mine for years and they're still in really good nick, while the cheap ones my mates have tend to bend, snap or deform if given too much abuse.
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• #24789
They do look similar. I might have linked to a different one because I prefer them without the nail pulling groove.
On durability, I had another forged type snap when I was trying to get a skirting board off. Was a proud moment.
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• #24790
chisel resting on a screwdriver
Plot twist - chisels are screwdrivers
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• #24791
I love my pry bars. They have to be some of my most used tools.
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• #24792
**adds TW to the list **
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• #24793
I prefer them without the nail pulling groove.
Same, although I can't quite put my finger on why that is.
While I'm falling down the Rutlands hole, I can't recommend these enough:
https://www.rutlands.com/sp+hand-tools-files-rasps-japanese-rasp-with-dual-handle-rutlands+jp1224Mine is a Shinto one, but looks identical to that.
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• #24794
Good news. I have a mini pry bar already!
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• #24795
My file game is pretty weak. I'm always on the lookout but this one looks a weird shape to be transporting which has put me off in the past. Normally only need files when I'm boxing stuff in that involves pipes. I use an apron plane from veritas for most of the small adjustments.
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• #24796
If you're thinking of routing hinge mortices it's worth making a small jig to sit on the edge of the door and use a copy ring on the router. It can take some time to make the jig but it's quite satisfying once you're up and running.
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• #24797
a weird shape to be transporting
You're not wrong there. They do a rasp which is just the blade on a normal handle, which is no doubt more toolbox friendly. I like them because you can rag on end grain and other tricky bits to work on. I used it to level the bottom of a knackered board the other day - definitely not something I'd want to use a Veritas plane on!
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• #24798
Best way to remove one of these (it's galvanised steel)that's concreted into my lawn?
Dig down and angle grind?
I don't own an angle grinder and not entirely sure it's the correct tool if I did...
Any advice ?
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• #24799
Do you just want the pole gone ? If so just hack saw it off. A pickaxe would be needed to remove the concrete tho. Or something like a breaker if you’re less of a masochist for manual labour.
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• #24800
If you're in the mood to dig why not dig the whole thing out including the concrete.
That air wedges make hanging the doors so much easier.