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  • That air wedges make hanging the doors so much easier.

  • What's an air wedge?

  • Didn't do the frames as well but for putting new doors in old frames I bought,

    1. Sharp chisel
    2. Saw horse
    3. Electric planer
    4. And doors :)
      As always plenty of videos online but it's fairly straight forward.
  • Thought that might be case but was also thinking they probably just had a silly name I didn't know. And cheese head it is! I think they'll work very well.
    Thank you.

  • Thanks for the tip. I'm outside London currently as I'm wfh. But I'll add to my brainium. Thanks.

  • This is something I curse not owning every time I need it (most recently last weekend when hanging full length mirrored wardrobe doors) and then entirely forget about afterwards.

    I'm going to buy one now.

  • I just pulled my oven out to measure up the hole in the countertop for a new gas hob. Turns out the oven electrical feed is via a standard plug and socket (just visible at the bottom). Is that a normal arrangement? The double socket (the other plug feeds the hob) is switched at the wall.


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  • Fairly common. Lots of ovens are 13A so a socket is fine.

  • Good to know, thank you!

  • Thanks. Did you cut the hinge mortises with a router or use the chisel?

  • Air wedges are great I'm sure but there's a tool that is useful for carpentry jobs and quite a few others.

    You put it under the door and stand on it. In a few cases you'll need to put something on the floor to protect it.

    If you don't have one you should ask Santa. I have a few in different sizes and this is my current favourite.

    https://www.rutlands.com/sp+japanese-3-way-pry-bar-200mm+M_JP1422

    An alternative if you don't have a pry bar or air wedges is a chisel resting on a screwdriver handle. Then you stand on the chisel handle to raise the door.

  • I can't find the exact ones I have but pretty sure they're Mokuba like that one - same stamped rocking horse logo. Although neither has the nail pulling groove in the flat end. It's definitely worth paying extra for ones that have been properly forged as they last so much longer. I've been ragging on mine for years and they're still in really good nick, while the cheap ones my mates have tend to bend, snap or deform if given too much abuse.


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  • They do look similar. I might have linked to a different one because I prefer them without the nail pulling groove.

    On durability, I had another forged type snap when I was trying to get a skirting board off. Was a proud moment.

  • chisel resting on a screwdriver

    Plot twist - chisels are screwdrivers

  • I love my pry bars. They have to be some of my most used tools.

  • **adds TW to the list **

  • I prefer them without the nail pulling groove.

    Same, although I can't quite put my finger on why that is.

    While I'm falling down the Rutlands hole, I can't recommend these enough:
    https://www.rutlands.com/sp+hand-tools-files-rasps-japanese-rasp-with-dual-handle-rutlands+jp1224

    Mine is a Shinto one, but looks identical to that.

  • Good news. I have a mini pry bar already!

  • My file game is pretty weak. I'm always on the lookout but this one looks a weird shape to be transporting which has put me off in the past. Normally only need files when I'm boxing stuff in that involves pipes. I use an apron plane from veritas for most of the small adjustments.

  • If you're thinking of routing hinge mortices it's worth making a small jig to sit on the edge of the door and use a copy ring on the router. It can take some time to make the jig but it's quite satisfying once you're up and running.

  • a weird shape to be transporting

    You're not wrong there. They do a rasp which is just the blade on a normal handle, which is no doubt more toolbox friendly. I like them because you can rag on end grain and other tricky bits to work on. I used it to level the bottom of a knackered board the other day - definitely not something I'd want to use a Veritas plane on!

  • Best way to remove one of these (it's galvanised steel)that's concreted into my lawn?
    Dig down and angle grind?
    I don't own an angle grinder and not entirely sure it's the correct tool if I did...
    Any advice ?


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  • Do you just want the pole gone ? If so just hack saw it off. A pickaxe would be needed to remove the concrete tho. Or something like a breaker if you’re less of a masochist for manual labour.

  • If you're in the mood to dig why not dig the whole thing out including the concrete.

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Home DIY

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