Home DIY

Thanks, I think I needed to hear this.

I have a sort of mantra "I can be disappointed for free" and it's this sort of situation from which it is derived. However I also have a personality that focuses disproportionately on specific negative things and I can struggle to see the big picture. Added onto that I'm used to being good at things, and like to spend a long time pondering a project before I take action, but that means I often don't get started at all and if I do I'm disappointed in what I can achieve. I'm detail focused to the point where ultimately I can't afford to pay for the right workmanship and I'm not capable of doing it myself. At the moment I'm feeling quite helpless and pathetic if I'm honest.

I'm also aware I've had a good few days of spamming this thread and for that I apologise. By way of moving forward on that, on my current mood and on my current project, tomorrow I plan to sketch out some finishing details that I can see being applicable to the bits of my flooring that need some finesse. Hopefully it will be of interest and might spark debate as to which detail works and when and why.

I'm feeling quite helpless and pathetic if I'm honest.

I'd say a majority of time doing DIY is feeling this - for me at least - so you're not alone. Sometimes you get a nice perk at the end when what you thought was the right way/a good way turns out good and doesn't look too bad. Still, it's better than dealing with tradespeople (unless you get a goodie), in my experience.

Anyone know where I can source a longer one of these?

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Right thing to do wrong wood treatment. It's boiled linseed oil that can ignite rags not tung oil.

Like I said before it says on the tin that rags can ignite, so the people who make it say that...

@Cupcakes I feel your pain with things like this but you're right in not making a big deal of it. When we had new flooring put down in our kitchen the actual floor looked incredible but the effort put into the skirting and finishing was so bad I just told the guy I would finish it if he left me the material. I think he'd just had enough and needed to get to another job, which I was fine with - he'd done the work I couldn't do. The rest I could.

If I was you I would get some 6mm (maybe there is smaller) quadrant beading and put that in place once you've tiled the hearth. It'll look lovely.

Yesterday I tried to build an IKEA bed and got to step 19 before I realised I'd done step 1 wrong. That was very disappointing.

I have the same issue that it feels a bit painful to pay for stuff where I know I won't be quite happy with the end finish. In my case it's probably because my dad is very, very good at DIY and a bit of a perfectionist so I know what type of DIY finish you can get. Realistically though I know that if I do it myself it will be a long time before it happens so sometimes you've just got to suck it up and get someone in.

When I did my floor, I spent forever researching stuff, and took my time. I tried to plan ahead and foresee any issues etc. But the reality is that you’ll always miss something and there will be small mistakes. Even trying to do everything right, you have to accept that you’ll probably be 80% happy with it. Especially when it’s the first time you do a job.

Making progress between steps is also important because you can get hung up on stuff that stops you moving ahead, and the more it drags, the worse it makes you feel.

Don’t worry though. I think most people find jobs like this anxiety inducing!

Especially when it’s the first time you do a job.

Always offer to help out doing someone else's job first. That way you can make all of the basic mistakes, learn from them, and then make a whole load of new mistakes when it comes to doing your own.

god, some of the finishing on our (extremely expensive) extension is definitely ropey in places. think the builder loved the building bit but got bored when it got to the final 10%. I think that's probably not uncharacteristic, especially on projects of similar size and so on the whole I am pretty pleased with the finishing... will occasionally see something and wince though

don't get me started on some of the window/lights/sightline alignment issues that pernickety/pedantic people like me find upsetting but which builders are just like 'well, it won't fall down and lights the room so that's good'

Yeah that's crap. We have quite similar in our cellar, also annoying.

Floorboards look decent though. Can I implore you not to turn them orange? ;)

Anyone know a good way of ending a section of bathroom tiles that doesn't involve tile trim? Some tiles have a sort of border you can buy, but not the one we want.
Is there some sort of MDF beading that we could paint? Obvs would need to make it waterproof.

Tile trim just looks so shit.

Some tiles have a sort of border

Many ranges also have a tile with a bullnose edge.

You could always try and make them completely flush.

No bullnose either.

Flush as in plaster up to the level of the tile?

Plasterer and tiler is now coming tomorrow, so I have another person to query as to the best methods. This guy is supposed to be real good and as a specialist rather than a generalist, and someone who inherently works on finishes, I am hoping he will be decent.

Colour matched tile trim and with correct profiles can look good - schluter or duraluk I think were two I looked at before

@Bainbridge if you can match the colour of the grout to the trim then I'd use trim. I'm pretty sure many colours of trim are available.

Flush as in plaster up to the level of the tile

I have this (face-on it's tile > recessed trim > plaster, flush side on). It makes me happy.

They look pretty much custom made for a particular application, you may be better getting a normal hex head bolt and machining to suit or hand finishing with a set of files.

Or modify a cheese head screw

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mm-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-SLOTTED-CHEESE-HEAD-MACHINE-SCREWS-DIN-84-/221522456324

New door liners and doors (internal), what do I need to know before I try and do this myself?

Its an arse covering measure.

Tung oil in its pure form is classed as non-flammable, so can burn only at pressure or when heated. It is possible that if you buy a quick drying or a brand of tung oil that can't guarantee its purity that it has been cut or mixed with some form of linseed oil.

Attached is the safety data sheet for Liberon pure tung oil, the brand I use, and I need to know the information in it because I need to be able to show clients that it is safe for me to use in their homes (on the rare occasion that I apply finish on site).

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• SDS-TUNG-OIL.pdf

Make sure the liners are wide enough to fit the wall they're going into. Ideally should be done before the spreads have come in (but not essential) if so they want to sit about 3mm proud on each side so that they can be skimmed flush.

However.........

In your house you may need to make them to measure. This isn't the end of the world just rip down pine boards to size (preferably engineered timber to avoid cupping etc.) The hardest part will be forming the rebates, it's best to use a router for this.

When installing use at the very least a reliable 6' level, but a laser level would be better, to ensure the uprights are straight and plumb. You also need to check the head for level. Pack the uprights against the wall in 3 or 4 places and put a screw into the wall through the packers (make sure this screw will be placed so it is hidden by the door stops.

Architrave can hide many fuck ups so long as things are straight, plumb and level.

Not DIY blah but what's a starting ballpark of getting someone to build and fit some kind of alcove storage solution - maybe drawers bottom half, open shelves on top either side of a fireplace. They'd be painted so not fussed about the material but would like them to be relatively tidy. No lights or plug sockets or anything silly. Not border framing around the shelves. 240cm tall, 30cm deep, 110cm wide x 2. Primed but not necessarily decorated.

I've just been quoted something like £1,700 for a similar thing (cabinets at the bottom rather than drawers). That was in MDF.

not sure with covid and all, but that amazing little screw place in Holborn usually has any screw you could want, Clerkenwell Screws, I think they are called.

for the shelves I got some floating shelves from chillhouse (great name I know) on ebay and amazingly their natural oak fits the habitat max oiled oak cabinets I got on sale a while ago exactly. Cost me 600 quid in total both sides).