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The important part of that is the size of cable feeding the socket. 45A would be far larger than any breaker size you're likely to see and considering a lot of houses only have an 80A supply for the whole house a 45A induction hob would probably be a lot of heat!
The switch you show in your picture is a switch for the cooker supply with a normal 13amp socket attached for convenience. They are probably not connected to the same circuit.
It's quite common for a contemporary oven to have a current draw below an induction hob. You might expect an induction hob to be 16A. I have mentioned Ohms law before, it's so simple and really helps with these kind of problems. 3400w/240v=14.16A. Watts/Volts=Amps
It's also often the case that there is a cooker circuit circa 20A which has the appropriate size cable running to a fixed wiring outlet which the cooker used to be connected to prior to the invention of more efficient cookers. It's also often the case that the hob required a small amount of voltage for a clock and programmer, so a 13amp socket may be present behind the cooker or in a cupboard next door.
If you have this scenario you can swap the induction to the 20A circuit and put the cooker on a 13amp plug. Otherwise you don't have a cooker circuit or the wiring still comes out too low i.e. 16A instead of 20A or your electrician is being vague.
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Airhead
jellybaby
40A so any 45A cooker isolation switch from somewhere reputable should be fine.