Home DIY

👍

The important part of that is the size of cable feeding the socket. 45A would be far larger than any breaker size you're likely to see and considering a lot of houses only have an 80A supply for the whole house a 45A induction hob would probably be a lot of heat!

The switch you show in your picture is a switch for the cooker supply with a normal 13amp socket attached for convenience. They are probably not connected to the same circuit.

It's quite common for a contemporary oven to have a current draw below an induction hob. You might expect an induction hob to be 16A. I have mentioned Ohms law before, it's so simple and really helps with these kind of problems. 3400w/240v=14.16A. Watts/Volts=Amps

It's also often the case that there is a cooker circuit circa 20A which has the appropriate size cable running to a fixed wiring outlet which the cooker used to be connected to prior to the invention of more efficient cookers. It's also often the case that the hob required a small amount of voltage for a clock and programmer, so a 13amp socket may be present behind the cooker or in a cupboard next door.

If you have this scenario you can swap the induction to the 20A circuit and put the cooker on a 13amp plug. Otherwise you don't have a cooker circuit or the wiring still comes out too low i.e. 16A instead of 20A or your electrician is being vague.

Cooker isolation switch replaced and the hob now works.

Interesting to note that the existing switch was already 45A (imprinted on socket at top left) and you can see where the overload has burned out the connection at bottom right ie the neutral feed from the cooker