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• #24552
you have good posture. also, flat screen telly in the bog? nice
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• #24553
So mine are old metal frames - no idea how old, house is 1960 - about 35mm overall so i think the glass will be either 18 or 20mm . I've pulled out some wedge gasket. Can't measure exactly but analog callipers give me as below - any advice on where to find replacements if I do try and DIY these ?
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• #24554
It doesn't bother me at all but apparently it's a thing so thought I'd share.
Our wc is both next to the shower and in line with the door. I guess it could be next to the bath, tho.
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• #24555
Posture? Ha, where are you seeing a flat screen TV? I did see a house that had a 4k LG in the shower... bit tacky.
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• #24556
does your bathroom have an inward or outward opening door? might want to install a pocket door, if possible given space is often at a premium in both the bathroom and the landing.
we're going to put one of these in sometime soon (less disruptive than putting in a pocket):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smLNd_97Kmo
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• #24557
Aye, fair does, yeah not sure if it would bother me but I guess sinks are nicer than loos?
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• #24558
I really like that and actually may need to make that for my middle room. Plan was pocket doors for bathroom.
That lad makes a bit of pigs ear of biting that door.Ha, just seen your notes, yeah go on then, thats an OLED TV, defo not a radiator.
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• #24559
I want to make some under-stair cupboard doors, to replace the very cheap solution I installed previously, courtesy of Fabricland.
I am currently a novice DIYer but willing to learn since I'm cash poor but time rich at the moment - I was quoted £750 by a carpenter which is not possible currently.
Any decent walkthroughs I should be looking at, or pro tips from someone who's done this before?
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• #24560
(that's in the flaps up position for photography porpoises, it doesn't look quite so appaling with flaps down)
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• #24561
Ha, pretty much exactly the same!
Creating the cupboard was a massive win. Storage is more useful than a big bathroom given the rest of the house is teeny tiny, and meant we could move the boiler out of the kitchen and get more space there as well.
Having the ledges works really well, no faffing around with shower caddies and recesses that trap mould. Looking at your design I personally would want more counter space around the basin but you are probably neater than us :)
The tiler (me) did a dreadful job but we used white 15cm tiles so it's pretty easy to repair or rearrange stuff, no tile-matching woes. (And cheap).
About 8 years in the toilet developed that annoying running-on/leaking seal thing but husband is pretty handy and was able to fix it through the access panel by following a you tube video, so a win for the Gerberit wall hung frame/cistern.
What would we change? We are going to remove the bath and have a shower instead, but that's only cos we now have another bathroom with a bath. If it was still the only bathroom we wouldn't do that.
Your layout with the shower plumbing on the same wall as the loo and sink is better than ours. We had to put the shower where we did because of the window, but it's making the walk-in shower conversion a huge faff because the loo is exactly where you want to walk and the ledge means we can't fit a door and end panel. We are literally considering getting the window resized to simplify everything.
And yes, we did site the loo so you don't see it from the open door because there's a direct line of sight from the front door through the bathroom door. But also because you can't put a mirror over the sink if it's under a window.
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• #24562
Don't forget to take into consideration the faff of moving toilet waste if there's one already in situ. The way the joists run can be the deciding factor.
On about the 4th rendition for my planned toilet to ensuite conversion.
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• #24564
We did move ours but it's a horizontal waste through an exterior wall so joists not a factor.
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• #24565
Just noticed - what's going on at the top of the stairs? Do the stairs actually finish a bit before the door, or does the cupboard need to be shallower?
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• #24566
how hard can it be?
Oh not hard, just potentially wet, smelly, slow and expensive.
I made the boxing removable using keku drop on fixings. Would recommend, although you need to measure up slightly more precisely than I did
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• #24567
Ha, nah, thats just a very rough render, there is a small landing in front of that room but I didn't care enough to adjust the stairs. Thanks for the tip around the tiles! Will buy plenty spare/choose something simple.
I actually worked out a solution to the mirror in front of the window issue - a oak window surround with built in sliding mirror, kinda hard to explain, sounds crap, but I feel it could work if we went down that route...@Kurai the waste is moving about 1m at most and will be boxed in with the built in shelf gubbins. The current waste exits and just above floor level so shouldnt be any issues with drop.
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• #24568
Was Charlie DIYte. Quite easy and simple construction methods, really good videos.
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• #24569
Thank you both. Will check it out
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• #24570
Thinking probs this one is most relevant to me:
https://youtu.be/U4zLZocjBs0
Just had a quick gander and seems very promising - I was just starting to think 'hmm, buying a router seems a bit involved', when he said 'now clearly you're not gonna have a router, so you can just do it with screws.' My kind of guy.
Plus he is a handsome Ned Stark type. A+ recommendation
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• #24571
pretty sure the IC S1 isn't ip44 or whatever. Only the mini glo-ball, and not in the size I wanted :( Foscarini Gregg was on my list but it's not the same.
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• #24572
That's the chap!
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• #24573
@chrisbmx116 - what are you using to create these diagrams?
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• #24574
3D stuff is home.by.me and technical diagrams are in Figma (UI design tool).
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• #24575
Oh ffs.. I didn't think of that.... well did, but totally ignored the possibility of it not being.
Already bought them so they will just have to sit in the loft.
See next post... that was only a rough.