Home DIY

Sharp Chisel

Possible without damaging the floor underneath?

https://www.solvite.co.uk/en/products/repair/wallpaper-repair-adhesive.html

currently making some headway with this - wet the area, peel it back a bit, squirt this in - so far so good but we've not painted yet

If anyone is thinking about building a deck, I found this video with some real practical construction methods.

https://youtu.be/xPf-y6DzwMQ

That looks perfect, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Should be. You can always break the bar up into smaller slivers with the chisel

The cistern will be fine to hang off the ply.

I’ve just boxed in some concealed cisterns and they were fixed to 18mm ply as you propose to do.

Excellent, thanks. Exactly what I wanted to know.

Plasterboard and shelves, get to fuck.

I hadn't considered the thickness actually, good point. I'm hoping I might be able to measure with a regular caliper once I have one trim off. Think I'm gonna order those tools and give it a crack (bad choice of words).

I find two flat knives are more use than the 7 function one.

Can you collect the unit safely and without damaging it?
They come without any packaging.

https://www.screwfix.com/c/safety-workwear/work-gloves/cat850338
The KS520 are probably a good idea.

DGU overall thickness has mainly been 16, 20, 24 and 28mm. However I did a unit yesterday that was 22 (I actually deglazed it to try 24mm as the bottom half of the door has a 24mm panel!)
Historically the spacer bars were silver or gold aluminium.
Plastic warm edge spacers are available in silver, gold and black, and I tend to fit black unless it's beside other units that aren't being replaced.

Deglazing it and measuring the thickness and width/height is a good idea if you don't have glass calipers to measure around a frame... Saves having to work out the bead clearance size too.

Measure the overall thickness and edge to edge size and temporarily refit the two longest beads

If it's 800mm or less from floor height to the glass, or in/joined onto a door then you'll need toughened glass.

Do you want Low-U energy efficient glass?
If it's newer than 2003 then it is more than likely Low-U that's fitted.

Theres nothing stopping you from upgrading older units to Low-U, except the coating gives a very slight tint which may be noticeable if this is part of a multi paned window and you not replacing them all.

It's not always reliable, as some coatings don't really show up well, but you can use a torch and look for a slight change of tint between the first and second reflections.

650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm clear float
12mm silver spacer
4mm clear float

650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm clear float
20mm black warm edge
4mm clear Low-U

650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm toughened clear
20mm gold warm edge
4mm toughened Low-U

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Thanks for the comprehensive reply, a few things I hadn't considered there. It will have to be toughened, and it's the only window in the room so low-U will be a nice bonus. I assumed, probably naively, that I'd be able to order them somewhere online, is that a thing? Or maybe I could get a local factory to deliver to my door? I have a VW polo and a bike so getting them home in one piece is probably unlikely.

If you order them from a local glass shop they can usually deliver for a price.

Interesting to see he chooses not to use a pull saw which you would have thought was more authentically Japanese.

that's amazing but the foundations look piddly

also, what's that burning and painting the feet thing he's doing, do you know?

also some of it i was like 'c'mon!'

like smooth planing the tenons - maybe there's some japanese technique i don't know about

I assumed, probably naively, that I'd be able to order them somewhere online, is that a thing?

Yes, you can get online delivery, but the p&p starts to make it less cost effective. Especially with delivery to the Highlands!

Or maybe I could get a local factory to deliver to my door?

And take away the old unit at some point?

I have a VW polo and a bike so getting them home in one piece is probably unlikely.

Before getting my van, I did a couple of units laid on a sheet of plywood in the back of the Twingo. Some blocks of wood screwed onto the ply stopped it sliding about and bits of carpet to stop it getting scratched. Don't crash!
Toughened is fairly difficult to break unless you bash a corner or edge. But if you do break it, it's a million pieces.

1m^2 will weigh 20kg

Miss measuring, smashing or scratching the units are why supply only is cheaper.
If you cock it up, it may have been cheaper to get a glazier to measure, supply and fit.

Apparently charring the wood preserves it better than any other treatment. I saw an interview with him where he spoke! and went into some detail about the charring. He's done it to the entire exterior of his workshop.

It’s a preservation technique called Shou Sugi Ban

The ‘grip it’ plaster board fixings are actually pretty good.

https://www.gripitfixings.co.uk

Prolly good science to it but kinda satisfyingly intuitive I think. Has become trendy AF but I’ve heard a lot of YouTube copycats are not doing it correctly. I guess to be long lasting it goes beyond just hitting a bit of wood with a flame for a bit . Assume this guy is legit tho.

This https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/products/interset-cavity-fixing-setting-tool-rawl-pno.-41-545 and these https://www.orbitalfasteners.co.uk/products/m4x40-interset-cavity-fixing-rawl-pno-r-sm-04038 were a game changer for fitting stuff to plasterboard

Knowing that it is properly engaged rather than hoping it will work as you screw it in is great.

Anyone got a paper tiger I could borrow or buy from you in a couple/few months? Save buying more tools that might be sitting in cupboard somewhere.

will 1 litre of paint be enough for the following: skirting in a 4x5m room + the inside of the door + the surrounds of the bay window + one 0.5x1.8m cupboard door ?

Well I'm getting some quotes in, so I'll see if it works out as worth the hassle/risk/extra expenses.

I actually want to keep the old unit to make a cold frame for the allotment.

Thanks again, at least I know what I'm asking for in terms of spec now.

Depends on the paint and method of application. Is it the same colour underneath? Is the surface primed or raw wood etc. Might be doable with oil based I guess.

But as always, I'd wait for Airhead or someone better equipped to answer.