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Thanks for the comprehensive reply, a few things I hadn't considered there. It will have to be toughened, and it's the only window in the room so low-U will be a nice bonus. I assumed, probably naively, that I'd be able to order them somewhere online, is that a thing? Or maybe I could get a local factory to deliver to my door? I have a VW polo and a bike so getting them home in one piece is probably unlikely.
Polygon-
If you order them from a local glass shop they can usually deliver for a price.
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I assumed, probably naively, that I'd be able to order them somewhere online, is that a thing?
Yes, you can get online delivery, but the p&p starts to make it less cost effective. Especially with delivery to the Highlands!
Or maybe I could get a local factory to deliver to my door?
And take away the old unit at some point?
I have a VW polo and a bike so getting them home in one piece is probably unlikely.
Before getting my van, I did a couple of units laid on a sheet of plywood in the back of the Twingo. Some blocks of wood screwed onto the ply stopped it sliding about and bits of carpet to stop it getting scratched. Don't crash!
Toughened is fairly difficult to break unless you bash a corner or edge. But if you do break it, it's a million pieces.1m^2 will weigh 20kg
Miss measuring, smashing or scratching the units are why supply only is cheaper.
If you cock it up, it may have been cheaper to get a glazier to measure, supply and fit.
Airhead
user69121
I find two flat knives are more use than the 7 function one.
Can you collect the unit safely and without damaging it?
They come without any packaging.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/safety-workwear/work-gloves/cat850338
The KS520 are probably a good idea.
DGU overall thickness has mainly been 16, 20, 24 and 28mm. However I did a unit yesterday that was 22 (I actually deglazed it to try 24mm as the bottom half of the door has a 24mm panel!)
Historically the spacer bars were silver or gold aluminium.
Plastic warm edge spacers are available in silver, gold and black, and I tend to fit black unless it's beside other units that aren't being replaced.
Deglazing it and measuring the thickness and width/height is a good idea if you don't have glass calipers to measure around a frame... Saves having to work out the bead clearance size too.
Measure the overall thickness and edge to edge size and temporarily refit the two longest beads
If it's 800mm or less from floor height to the glass, or in/joined onto a door then you'll need toughened glass.
Do you want Low-U energy efficient glass?
If it's newer than 2003 then it is more than likely Low-U that's fitted.
Theres nothing stopping you from upgrading older units to Low-U, except the coating gives a very slight tint which may be noticeable if this is part of a multi paned window and you not replacing them all.
It's not always reliable, as some coatings don't really show up well, but you can use a torch and look for a slight change of tint between the first and second reflections.
650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm clear float
12mm silver spacer
4mm clear float
650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm clear float
20mm black warm edge
4mm clear Low-U
650mm wide x 700mm high
4mm toughened clear
20mm gold warm edge
4mm toughened Low-U