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• #24402
This isn't my circular saw, but it's similar and has the same rip fence(?):
Maybe I'm being thick here, but do you just press the base edge of the circular saw up to the strip edge without the guide?
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• #24403
Yes, the guide is only for ripping small pieces off the edge. If you want to rip further into the board you can remove the guide and clamp a long guide to the wood then run the base plate of the saw along the edge of the guide rail. You have to calculate the offset from the edge of the base plate and take that into account when you clamp the guide in place. If you don't need to worry about the cut piece you can screw a guide to it where clamping is a pain.
When you start to get more fussy you realise it's difficult to get a straight guide or one long enough that stays put etc. so the track saw becomes more desirable.
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• #24404
Cheers. That all makes sense.
Sadly my OH was going to buy me a track saw as an anniversary present, but a friend's husband who's pretty handy said it wasn't worth it :(
On the upside I hadn't got a gift either so there was no awks.
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• #24405
Take it from me, if the OH is buying you a track saw they have some furniture they want built!
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• #24406
Someone needs a word with her friend's husband.
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• #24407
This pair of LED bulkheads are v. bright and v. white. Is it possible to dim it or convert to warmer light without replacing the whole unit?
2 Attachments
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• #24408
Dim by adjusting, modifying or replacing the driver.
Change the colour temperature by changing the LEDs, in which case swapping out the module is probably easier. Nowadays I'd expect an array of surface-mount LEDs (COB) rather than the 6 larger LEDs you've got.
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• #24409
Solder a resistor in series on the positive terminal of the LED board and see what happens?
Maybe success, maybe electroboom.
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• #24410
rattlecan the inside of the dome a very pale yellow? IANAElectrician.
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• #24411
If it's a constant current driver, probably just turn more electricity into heat.
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• #24412
Double duty device, win!
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• #24413
This one?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Knipex-12-62-180-SB/dp/B000C74WBOI've had a few adjustable ones in the past but they were never great. Would be willing to pay for one that consistently worked.
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• #24414
Ah I just have the very basic ones like this https://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=group_detail&parentID=1363&groupID=1376 so I can't comment on those which look a bit 'smarter'
Across the four pairs of plier type things I have they all feel really high quality. I'd probably give them a go and hope they're good
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• #24415
I'm finding the bracket blocking the driver's specs quite frustrating.
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• #24416
How do I make my glossing not look shit?
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• #24417
I know right!
I assume their point was that a circular saw was more versatile.
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• #24418
Cheers. Maybe I'll give it a try
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• #24419
Thin coats. Put it on thick and it’ll run.
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• #24420
You can't go wrong with Knipex stuff. If you are stripping the most common types of electrical wire there are many effective ways and a simple pair of side cutters can get you a long way.
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• #24421
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• #24422
I knocked this up for total cost of about £12 before I bought a track saw, advantage over wood is it glides better and doesn’t wear out:
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• #24423
. If you are stripping the most common types of electrical wire there are many effective ways and a simple pair of side cutters can get you a long way.
Had to be shown how to do it properly and I've never looked back. I'll try and explain but probably fail.
For right handers:
Hold wire with left hand as if you were clasping a pipe and pointing your thumb like you're giving a thumbs up- IE, fingers making a fist round the wire and thumb pointing in the direction of the wire. Have cutters/pliers in your right hand, close cutters on to the insulation but don't squeeze hard. With your pliers' cutter gripped onto the insulation, push the pliers with your left thumb where the pliers hinge, you can also lever the pliers by pivoting them on your left thumb for extra leverage. With this method you'll get a lot of force to pull the insulation off, which makes it easier to not put too much pressure onto the cutters and accidentally cutting into the copper. -
• #24424
Very pleased with my new tiny ratchet spanner.
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• #24425
Your SL4 troubles me.
By the time you want to make a cut that far into the board you can use a straight piece of timber or better still a rail clamped to the board. Something like a spirit level might work.
Before track saws that's how a lot of carpenters cut sheet goods on site.