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Wheels: managed to source what seems like one of the last sets of Stans Arch Mk3 26” rims in Europe after having several orders cancelled due to unavailability. Apparently the Mk3 range has been phased out and the Mk4 won’t be available till 2k21...
Fork: have found an elusive Pace RC31 with the correct AtoC and long-enough steerer, but may also get a set of Taiwanese titanium forks made with bottle cage eyelets.
Bars: waiting on a set of wide Nitto risers from Japan, couldn’t find them anywhere in Europe.
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Looks a great! very neat with those tiny lugs.
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I’ve unscrewed the studs and going to fit this Hope hose guide and blanking bolt in their place.
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*Adds Limit Fabrications to tabs.
Really looking forward to this :-) -
Goddamn that's elegant. I've never seen a disc tab design like that, one little boss on each stay. Does this guy do steel too? I've got an old GT that I've wanted to do a disc conversion on for years
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Not sure if he takes on steel jobs, worth an ask though.
If not, I’ve used Cam at Banzai Bikes in Canonbury for steel mods before with great results.
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Just did an embarrassing weenie weightwatchers spreadsheet & the complete bike should come up ~8.7Kg... And probably fold in half the first time I ride it.
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Great project, I always thought titanium frames were a mess to mod/solder. Will you consider brushing the frame using Scotchbrite pads?
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Thanks!
Depends on the skills of the person wielding the TIG rod I suppose.
I won’t be refinishing the frame, it doesn’t need it. These came in a dull shot-blasted finish from the factory; mine was sprayed yellow at some point then sanded back, the result being as shiny as I’d ever want it I reckon. Excessive polishing of Ti frames just makes them look like nickel-plated steel imo.
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I've never seen a disc tab design like that, one little boss on each stay.
It's not uncommon but this one is unusual as they've used the old IS standard mount.
High volume builders would swerve it because the ability to position the calliper can be affected by the geometry of the stays and the design of the calliper. And Flat Mount solves it completely, obvs.
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These tabs I’ve had added don’t exactly conform to the ISO standard; I had them positioned so that the Hope ‘Number 5’ IS caliper designed for a 140mm rotor can be used with a 160mm on the rear without any adapters.
It’s a one-off made to fit the parts.
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Might get stickers with ‘MORLEY’S’ written in the Merlin font...
Do this do this do this. But in the MARIN font.
Sick bike fam.
Wondering why a brace for disc conversion not necessary? Only because I had a frame converted, and I got a shitty ISO mount on the seat stay, and a huge bracing tube added, and now I'm wondering why I didn't just get this^ done.
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Fanx cuzzy.
In this particular configuration the caliper acts as a stressed member jUsT lIkE rAcEcArRr so also functions as a brace.
If there was an orthodox IS tab along the top of the seatstay then the moment would be far enough away from the fulcrum to warrant a brace.
Or the whole thing crumples the second I squeeze the lever for the first time lol.
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I hadn't thought about this till now, but the caliper definitely won't have been designed to act as a stressed member like that. It's probably fine (lol) but I wonder what magnitude of additional stress you'll be exposing the caliper to.
(Edit: I guess you could get a lil brace machined to protect the caliper from buckling)
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The rear wheel will break traction long before anything will start to fatigue/deform. The caliper is a chunk of solid alloy and the plain-gauge stays are beefy enough.
...I hope lol!
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More bits arriving, more of the usual #retromtbconversion tropes...
Can’t wait to build this sukka up now.
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vilms5000
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About
Marin Team Titanium, Stumpjumper Comp: obsolete 90’s toss and a Stayer
Posted by
@ectoplasmosis
ooft that is neat n discreet - what bits have you got to get still?