Home DIY

I have found that most interior walls are covered in plaster. If the pic is light, the three pin hooks work well or a single picture nail.
For heavier things, what is below the plaster should be taken into account.

Aye that makes sense. I want to help, but don’t want to get in over my head - I have no plumbing experience after all.

Q: We sandblasted some oak panelling and I want to treat it. Which Osmo (or other) product will give the least colour and most matte finish?

You could just leave it raw. Unless it’s being touched in certain places (door push plates, handles etc) it’ll just stay the same.

Took the sink, cabinets etc out of my kitchen over the last couple of days in preparation for a new fit out. I was surprised to find the cut end of an electric cable directly under the sink cabinet. It also looks blackened like it's been on fire. I reckon it dates from the early 1990s when the records show that a previous owner moved the sink from the scullery to this location. Presumably there was an electric oven here before then.

I've got an electrician coming in shortly to make it all good and safe, but thought it interesting in any case. I have often wondered if I started poking about under the floors, would I find a cable. I'm guessing /hoping this one isn't connected to anything anymore!

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I'm not sure which part of the system you're dealing with. You should be able to cut off the boiler and the mains supply and get a compression fitting on there. I usually find a longer one than the one you linked to but its basically that method in principal.

It is a reasonable point that since this piece of pipe failed in that way it might be worth replacing the run if it's possible.

When applying the LSX I usually put a small amount on the olive and the threads. The compression fittings hold water 95% of the time first time around, LSX just stops any fiddling around because it seals any compression joint first time.

You would only need to have perfectly dry or frozen pipes if you were going to solder the repair. Compression joints don't mind being fitted wet. Just don't try to fit them when there's full pressure, it's surprising how much water gets everywhere when you do that. :)

Always have a lot of old towels a bucket and dustpan to catch water just in case. Saves everyone running around like crazy if there's an unplanned evacuation of water.

I’m not a sparks but both of those cables looked fucked - When I found a cable which was under rated for the cooker it looked like that so could be something similar.
Also I don’t think the routing of them is particularly safe/clever?

We had something similar. Thought of replacing also but a new coat of paint and a change of handles gave it a new lease of life. Unless you just hate it

Yeah this. Is there something about the PAX system that’s superior to what’s already in place @velohobbit? Even just replacing the doors with different ones or sliding panels would be way less hassle and would completely change the look.

cable which was under rated for the cooker

I'm also not a sparks and I also thought exactly this.

Amazing - cheers!

This is how my niche in our new bathroom is currently looking, granted it’s not finished but I’m slightly anxious about how it will look; Is there a better trim to use?

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The alcove in our tiled bathroom is finished off with some brushed silver aluminium strip, shaped like angle iron, mitred at the edges.

Now wishing should have gone gold coloured....

Osmo polyx oil Raw. It has a whitening agent in it that counters the oranging. One coat of raw and then one coat of satin/gloss/matt clear and it will be as close to og colour and protected as possible

Yeah think this needs to be mitred, but it’s like it needs two edges? Otherwise the inside tiles protrude. Which doesn’t seem right?

we have an L-shaped edging trim in our bathroom, to give an edged finish on both sets of tiles (i.e. where they meet)

Hmm are they full or easily cut tiles?
I cant visualise his an L can achieve that..?
Edit: does it just stick on the outside of the corner?

cut tiles, I think. it sticks on the outside of the tiles so that the join is obscured, and you have 5mm of edge on each surface. I'll take a pic. it's not super high end or anything but it's tidy enough

Yeah that looks better. My wife has spent rather a lot on the tiles and I‘m now I’m extra invested in the best finish possible :-(
Edit; thank you btw

Yup, that looks like the edging strip we have :)

nice plants! one of the small pots looks like it's floating

Washing machine swap: usually have a very clear valve to turn off water to the machine before swapping.

However I have found this very odd thing connecting the pipe to the water.

Please anyone who can help me understand how to get the cunt off I’d massively appreciate it

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https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/educate-me-about-this-pretty-standard-plumbing-connector.417453/

You are not alone!

Thank you! Ended up just turning off the mains and emptying out what was there then swapping them over. Thanks that was very useful!

Cheeky PSA if anyone is after a project. Will delete post if inappropriate for thread, just say.

I've been flogging our Parquet on eBay at £19 per sq m, lfgss discounted price available £15 sq m. There's 10 sq m left

It's all boxed up in banana boxes. Only snag is it is in Mcr & would need collection. I got a courier quote for one possible 5 sq m sale to the wilds of Scotland and it was looking at about £50.

Hit me up on dm's if interested and I can direct you to the eBay sale and send you a "buyer offer" or however it works from there.

How hard is it to make a small front garden wall? What might you expect to pay?

I’ve got reclaimed bricks from our removed chimney and front wall is on its last legs so seems like an opportune moment.