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So if I were to try and fix it properly, what should I try?
Cut the pipe with pipe cutter, slide coupler on, realign pipes and slide coupler back down?
One of these do? https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-equal-couplers-15mm-2-pack/95828?tc=ST2&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwiaX8BRBZEiwAQQxGx2YYmYEhZhR3Ne7Czop1aSJU0LzR_uYSifuIE6xdHlyooHa6O7fXzhoCcdkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Would I want to slather the fucker in lsx, or just the thread, or what about the contact surface between coupler and pipe? If we can turn the water off at the stop cock, and drain as much out as possible (taps on upstairs and down), should I be ok to just try and cut it, or do I need to freeze the pipe? It’s wet as fuck where the leak is anyway. And I imagine I could catch a lot with a bucket. Not ideal but possible.We’re now in a situation where the plumber wants to take half their kitchen apart, and insurance doesn’t cover putting it back together, so it might not actually be economical to get them in to do the repair.
Also, is freeze spray a waste of cash?
Nef-
So if I were to try and fix it properly, what should I try?
If it spontaneously sprang a leak mid way along the pipe, try and replace the run as far as possible/practical.
If it's corroded you don't want to be doing this again in a week or months time after plastering
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I'm not sure which part of the system you're dealing with. You should be able to cut off the boiler and the mains supply and get a compression fitting on there. I usually find a longer one than the one you linked to but its basically that method in principal.
It is a reasonable point that since this piece of pipe failed in that way it might be worth replacing the run if it's possible.
When applying the LSX I usually put a small amount on the olive and the threads. The compression fittings hold water 95% of the time first time around, LSX just stops any fiddling around because it seals any compression joint first time.
You would only need to have perfectly dry or frozen pipes if you were going to solder the repair. Compression joints don't mind being fitted wet. Just don't try to fit them when there's full pressure, it's surprising how much water gets everywhere when you do that. :)
Always have a lot of old towels a bucket and dustpan to catch water just in case. Saves everyone running around like crazy if there's an unplanned evacuation of water.
user69121
Airhead
Well done fixing that with LSX. I'm pretty sure it was me who recommended it but I've never used it for anything other than sealing the threads on compression fittings. There's a bit of kit I carry these days which makes temporary repairs like this very quick and easy, google Rothenberger Kibosh for details.
I've seen u bends assembled with LSX that shouldn't have held water but lasted at least 6 months because of the LSX. I would be looking at getting something more sturdy done early next week though. It is pretty easy to repair with a compression fitting if you cut the pipe and slide the compression fitting over the cut, there are different lengths available. Biggest pain is stopping the water flow for a while and then recommissioning. Alternatively try the Rothenberger thing and you can wait until whenever to get the leak fixed!