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Well done fixing that with LSX. I'm pretty sure it was me who recommended it but I've never used it for anything other than sealing the threads on compression fittings. There's a bit of kit I carry these days which makes temporary repairs like this very quick and easy, google Rothenberger Kibosh for details.
I've seen u bends assembled with LSX that shouldn't have held water but lasted at least 6 months because of the LSX. I would be looking at getting something more sturdy done early next week though. It is pretty easy to repair with a compression fitting if you cut the pipe and slide the compression fitting over the cut, there are different lengths available. Biggest pain is stopping the water flow for a while and then recommissioning. Alternatively try the Rothenberger thing and you can wait until whenever to get the leak fixed!
Airhead-
Ordered!
The list of @Airhead recommended essentials is worth subscribing to.Q: We sandblasted some oak panelling and I want to treat it. Which Osmo (or other) product will give the least colour and most matte finish?
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Rothenberger Kibosh
Looks bang on. Will pick up a couple to have in the toolbox for sure. I think the lsx hasn’t completely worked but they’re now in a position to get the insurance to cover the plumber anyway. So good enough. The slide method will be a reasonable backup if the plumber no shows today.
This thread coming with the goods as always.
Spent today on top of my mate’s dormer roof trying to remove the sag in the ceiling before the surveyor comes on Wednesday. We succeeded and no one fell off - we had harnesses and a safety loop of sorts, but was deffo glad to be finished!
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So if I were to try and fix it properly, what should I try?
Cut the pipe with pipe cutter, slide coupler on, realign pipes and slide coupler back down?
One of these do? https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-equal-couplers-15mm-2-pack/95828?tc=ST2&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjwiaX8BRBZEiwAQQxGx2YYmYEhZhR3Ne7Czop1aSJU0LzR_uYSifuIE6xdHlyooHa6O7fXzhoCcdkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Would I want to slather the fucker in lsx, or just the thread, or what about the contact surface between coupler and pipe? If we can turn the water off at the stop cock, and drain as much out as possible (taps on upstairs and down), should I be ok to just try and cut it, or do I need to freeze the pipe? It’s wet as fuck where the leak is anyway. And I imagine I could catch a lot with a bucket. Not ideal but possible.We’re now in a situation where the plumber wants to take half their kitchen apart, and insurance doesn’t cover putting it back together, so it might not actually be economical to get them in to do the repair.
Also, is freeze spray a waste of cash?
Tenderloin
Nef
Got a call last night from a mate saying he had a leak. His insurance covers a plumber, but not "track and trace", which in this instance means that they won't get a plumber out to you unless you know what the source of the leak is - not that he needs to have a QR code to scan. Confusing terminology to have at this time.
This alone struck me as pretty bizarre - imagine a sparky saying they'd only come and look at your electrics if you knew the location of the fault?!
Anyway, after some exploratory hole making into the plasterboard behind his kitchen units, I got access to the cavity between the chimney breast and the wall by contorting myself through the 12x20 inch hole. It was fucking soaking. So wet that trying to figure out the source of the leak seemed impossible. Until we realised it felt like it was raining in there, and we spotted that one of the old copper feeds to the boiler upstairs had sprung a leak and was spraying water out (only a pin sized hole). Thanks to someone in this thread who recommended LSX leak sealant when I was refitting my toilet, I had a tube in my toolbox. So I was able to clean up the area around the hole and coat a bandage in the paste and bind it on - which seemed to do the trick until he can get a plumber from the insurance to come out.
My brother in law was very keen to explain to me over the phone how to fix it properly with press fit fixings, but I can't say I was that enthusiastic at half 9 at night.
The point of this very long winded story is to ask how reliable LSX fixes are, and is it normal for a completely undisturbed pipe to spring a leak? He's getting a plumber in to fix it properly but I advised that letting the plumber know it isn't urgent will likely save him some money.
My mate says he's been hearing dripping for weeks and even had a plumber out, but the plumber just told him he was being paranoid. Weeks go by and last night my mate spotted a big wet patch under the unit in the corner - hence my visit. FFS, why are so many tradespeople happy to fob customers off like that? The water was spraying very near the back of a load of sockets - could have been disastrous if it got any worse.
Oh, and the insurance won't cover any works to make the plaster right etc. I'm happy to do that myself, but the scope of the insurance is shockingly half arsed. One question about that - where I've cut through the plasterboard, I've also gone through the membrane/building wrap, and the plasterboard is foil backed. When I come to patch it back in, are there any considerations I should make as to repairing the membrane/integrity of the foil? I've never repaired plasterboard with a moisture barrier like that.
Anyway, /csb.