I got the train to Oban, which goes through some dramatic landscapes, and straight on the ferry the next morning. It's a popular destination, and the boat was full of grotesque 4x4s. The tourism is mostly in the north of the island though, and I rode across the south of Mull to my first stop at Ardtun, a caravan in a field of sheep looking out at a mountain. From there I explored the nearby lakes and estuaries, found whole goose and herring gull skeletons, and another skull I've not identified yet (very exciting).
Next I made the short trip to Iona. The tiny ferry was fun. I stayed in a shepherds hut that just about stayed warm enough at night. I would advise taking a four season sleeping bag whatever time of year you go. Didn't get much painting done because I lost a day to rain. Had an amazing run around the north coast of the island, on which I found the skull of a Great Northern Diver, a bird I hadn't even heard of before. On the top of every hill here is an odd little stump, which I found out from my sister are the remains of crosses that marked a pilgrimage trail around the island. Iona has just one road and one path, which makes exploring quite tiring, as you're always climbing through bogs. Loved it.
After three days I packed up the bike again, posted some paintings and bones back to Gipsy Hill, and rode north to Tobermory. Beautiful rainstorm swept past as I approached the mountains. Found a dead dogfish on the beach. Overtook a group of riders, one of whom tried to catch me on this massive climb which made it fun. 40mph descent to a cracking coast road. Bit of a headwind and the last climb before getting in was brutal, later I found out it was gusting 80mph off the North Sea.
Nice to be in an apartment with a shower. Painted Loch Frisa. Walked the north coast and found more herring gull bones, a near complete sea urchin, a beautiful live slow worm which I filmed, and the bones of deer scattered on the rocks, I looked up and imagined they must have fallen from the cliffs. Two crows barked at me from the clifftop and followed me down the beach. I told them they could eat me if I died. Had a boggy but spectacular run to the top of Speinne Mor, and cycled home in the dark with bats zig zagging across the road in front of me. Startled a huge deer.
Last month I spent two weeks doing this, stopping along the way for some walking, fell running, painting and wildlife.
https://ridewithgps.com/routes/34142332
I got the train to Oban, which goes through some dramatic landscapes, and straight on the ferry the next morning. It's a popular destination, and the boat was full of grotesque 4x4s. The tourism is mostly in the north of the island though, and I rode across the south of Mull to my first stop at Ardtun, a caravan in a field of sheep looking out at a mountain. From there I explored the nearby lakes and estuaries, found whole goose and herring gull skeletons, and another skull I've not identified yet (very exciting).
Next I made the short trip to Iona. The tiny ferry was fun. I stayed in a shepherds hut that just about stayed warm enough at night. I would advise taking a four season sleeping bag whatever time of year you go. Didn't get much painting done because I lost a day to rain. Had an amazing run around the north coast of the island, on which I found the skull of a Great Northern Diver, a bird I hadn't even heard of before. On the top of every hill here is an odd little stump, which I found out from my sister are the remains of crosses that marked a pilgrimage trail around the island. Iona has just one road and one path, which makes exploring quite tiring, as you're always climbing through bogs. Loved it.
After three days I packed up the bike again, posted some paintings and bones back to Gipsy Hill, and rode north to Tobermory. Beautiful rainstorm swept past as I approached the mountains. Found a dead dogfish on the beach. Overtook a group of riders, one of whom tried to catch me on this massive climb which made it fun. 40mph descent to a cracking coast road. Bit of a headwind and the last climb before getting in was brutal, later I found out it was gusting 80mph off the North Sea.
Nice to be in an apartment with a shower. Painted Loch Frisa. Walked the north coast and found more herring gull bones, a near complete sea urchin, a beautiful live slow worm which I filmed, and the bones of deer scattered on the rocks, I looked up and imagined they must have fallen from the cliffs. Two crows barked at me from the clifftop and followed me down the beach. I told them they could eat me if I died. Had a boggy but spectacular run to the top of Speinne Mor, and cycled home in the dark with bats zig zagging across the road in front of me. Startled a huge deer.