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I think you would have trouble keeping the reducer in place when preloading/compressing the split ring.
And I don't see why you would need to split the reducer?
Jaap-
How do you mean struggle to keep it in place? I had in mind a shim with a lip on so it can’t drop down inside the headtube but sits nicely on the edge of the bearing’s split ring.
I think if I’m not mistaken that the split ring that comes with the headset reduces the ID of the headset from 32.8 to 31.8mm and 1mm isn’t big enough of a gap for a wire. So aligning the slots on the split ring and the reducer shim gives double space
Edit: 0.5mm actually, either side
PhilDAS
Am I missing something here or is this plausible?
Ignoring the fact I was previously talking about a 44mm headtube.
If using an IS42 top headset bearing with a tapered steerer, 1 1/8" at the top bearing, could one use an IS42 top headset bearing intended for a 1 1/4" steerer such that come on Canyons and others. Then use a split shim to reduce this down to 1 1/8" and sneak a single di2 wire down the split in the shim which could be opened up a little/filed if necessary.
This FSA 1 1/4" headset uses a larger ID bearing than the steerer already and uses a split ring to compress the angular contact bearings so in lining up the split with a reducer shim split too, it would give me 2.1mm by my calculations, enough for a di2 wire
Am I missing something/being stupid (probably)?