Internally routing or Hiding Di2

Ooh, what happened to the seat tubes?

I've heard of Titanium cracking plenty myself but not due to drilling dropper posts.

oh what is this? looks hot. send more.

It's my fast tourer/ultracycling bike which I used on the Three Peaks Bike Race from Vienna to Barcelona last year. I built the frame, which is a mixture of Columbus Spirit/Life/Max and T45 tubing. All internal wiring and cables, Ultegra Di2, Light Bicycle 56mm rims on DT Swiss 240S hubs.

In use at the top of the Colle delle Finestre:

On the way up the Finestre:

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PS Full build pics and details at the end of this thread.

this thread

wow i have never been more jealous of a bike.

Am I missing something here or is this plausible?

Ignoring the fact I was previously talking about a 44mm headtube.

If using an IS42 top headset bearing with a tapered steerer, 1 1/8" at the top bearing, could one use an IS42 top headset bearing intended for a 1 1/4" steerer such that come on Canyons and others. Then use a split shim to reduce this down to 1 1/8" and sneak a single di2 wire down the split in the shim which could be opened up a little/filed if necessary.

This FSA 1 1/4" headset uses a larger ID bearing than the steerer already and uses a split ring to compress the angular contact bearings so in lining up the split with a reducer shim split too, it would give me 2.1mm by my calculations, enough for a di2 wire

Am I missing something/being stupid (probably)?

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Also ignoring the bearing cover/cap. That would need to come from another headset and modified

I don't know about this but have been fucking around with our internally stupid bike today and the forks are very tight with a 28c, sick anodised fadez looking pretty cool though.

Was there a final cost concluded on that fork?

Would have to be about £250 unfortunately.

Still interested.

Slide into my DMs baby.

I think you would have trouble keeping the reducer in place when preloading/compressing the split ring.

And I don't see why you would need to split the reducer?

How do you mean struggle to keep it in place? I had in mind a shim with a lip on so it can’t drop down inside the headtube but sits nicely on the edge of the bearing’s split ring.

I think if I’m not mistaken that the split ring that comes with the headset reduces the ID of the headset from 32.8 to 31.8mm and 1mm isn’t big enough of a gap for a wire. So aligning the slots on the split ring and the reducer shim gives double space

Edit: 0.5mm actually, either side

I had in mind a shim with a lip on so it can’t drop down inside the headtube but sits nicely on the edge of the bearing’s split ring.

Smart, should work.

Not my bad photo, but look at all the lack of cables, He looks like a happy boy with his new bike too.

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that is actually not bad!

This high praise will be quoted in future marketing.

Nice. Looks tidy. And on a frame of that size the headtube doesn't look out of proportion either.

The headtube is bloody massive but is well hidden by being bright pink and having quite a big frame attached to it.

Just seen this on Strava, looks great.

I guess that's one way of ensuring he has to bring the bike to a professional mechanic every time something goes wrong

Nothing goes wrong; its shimano.

Excessive, awkward internal routing is every mechanics favourite thing and just what they want to encourage more of.