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A sharp blade should enable you to have a 'pull tab',
that reveals the adhered edge that you can loosen with the same sharp blade.
Any residue left might come away with a bit of a scrape,
or the application of a 'Silicone Remover'.
Soudal do one, Toolstation item no. 75719
that is a lot less damaging to the Environment than the previous versions.Sealants work better in compression than tension,
so fill the bath up before you re-seal.
Best results from the bead of sealant sticking to around 6mm of bath edge and tile.
The sanitary silicones cure/harden by giving off vinegary fumes.
The first noseful will be a shock to the olfactory system and may make your eyes water.
The surface of the freshly applied sealant may well be tack-free within an hour (or two),
but the rate of cure slows down significantly as the thickness of the cured layer increases.
Best to leave it overnight if you can before allowing the water to drain away.
mespilus-
Thanks (and @rj and @nefarious ).
To be fair, the last tube of sealant I think I had bought but then handed to the handyperson in a "here, we've got this already" so I'd be surprised if it was still usable several years after first being opened.
If I'm getting a sealant smoother than I'll probably get another tube of sealant just in case (it can always stay unopened in the cupboard if the existing one is usable).
Shower and sink only so no need to worry about the bath (which is showing no signs of mould). Also no problem leaving it 24 hours or more to cure if required.
Will watch the video again when sober.
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Wow. If only I knew this when I renewed the massive sealant I replaced in the house
Thanks
Greenbank
musa
That time for replacing the shower sealant has come around again (as the mould is getting too visible), usually I'd tack it on to some other DIY jobs and get a handyperson in but Covid and other stuff means I should really have a go myself.
Removing old stuff. Any tips or is it just a case of removing as much as possible with whatever is to hand and applying a new strip over anything that remains?
Is a Mark 1 finger (in a latex glove) good enough for smoothing it or some other magic tool/trick necessary?
Other than it could be completely solid and useless, should the part used tube that's been sat in the cupboard for 2 years since it was last done be ok?