Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

It was on top I think but by the end there was some oil most places.

I think it was related to the bleeding because I'd never noticed it on top before so this could be a clue. Thanks.

As far as I'm aware, most hydraulic bicycle disc brakes* are 'open' designs where it's possible for the system to eject fluid from the reservoir should the pressure get too high for whatever reason.

* obvious exception - Juintec cable actuated.

Bargain.

My understanding is that it doesn't matter which hose you use for any of the brakes as long as you have right barb in the end of the hose. I've just put a bh90 caliper on a bh59 hose and while I've not tested propperly, it's stopping me and not leaking.

This. BH59 is the old brake hose.

That said, some current road hydro are supplied with BH59, why? Ask Shimano.

They both pretty much work fine together in practice, but shimano says to use the right ones, BH90 has a thinner bore than BH59 for whatever reasons they deem best, pushing less volume of fluid through further or something, silver barb for 90, brass for 59. Generally the higher end stuff has had BH90 but that has basically trickled down through almost the whole range.

Maybe, but I think the lever determines how much fluid is pushed, and the bore difference is so tiny as to have virtually no effect. Just my understanding. Blind taste tests required.

As long as it all seals OK, you're fine. Best to match the hose with the barb, but if it works, it works.

They both pretty much work fine together in practice

That's what I was saying innit. Match the barb and host though, or it'll be too tight or too loose depending on which way you're not matching.

I think the issue was i hadn't bungeed the lever all the way to the bar last time. Seems much better now.

Pleased to hear corroboration of my hatred of SRAM torx bolts on cycling tips nerdcast yesterday.

Though I suspect its SRAM>torx fault.

has clarks copied juintech then? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarks-Road-MTB-Hybrid-Flat-Mount-Cable-Operated-Hydraulic-Disc-Brake-Set/353168697801?hash=item523a7ea9c9:g:Qq4AAOSwx~dfRnMS

Licensed and rebadged maybe? Juintec aren't exactly a household name brand.

seems like

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001221233006.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6eac7d70IQuDMh&algo_pvid=27fa2c76-d52d-48af-8170-b8f8be3ee5a7&algo_expid=27fa2c76-d52d-48af-8170-b8f8be3ee5a7-0&btsid=0b0a182b16000262816545489edf3d&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

BiL has an e-bike with fairly cheap looking cable discs. Loud screeching from the rear. What are the normal causes of this?

Contaminated pads / rotor. New pads and clean the rotor with IPA or similar.

Cheers!

GRX flat mount calipers.

Do I turn the rear adapter upside down to go to 140mm rotors (from 160) or remove it altogether?

remove

👍

Thinking of going hydro on my postmount gravel bike with some GRX ST-810 shifters. Question is what caliper I can get away with using. I'm not so interested in paying 45eur on BR-RS785 calipers when BR-M6100 can be had for 25, and seemingly so can BR-M7100.

Any good reason to choose the road caliper in this case? It's an older model now using the BH59 hose whilst the GRX and M-series calipers are BH90.

This bike won't be doing anything but CX/winter rides, not descending the Alps or anything like that so I can't really see a need for anything beyond an XC level brake.

No reason at all, just buy the hydro calipers you like.
You pay 20€ for cooling fins which look nice.
At least thats my knowledge.

So, cable disc question:

Will I be significantly happier with trp spyke/spyre than BB7?
Same pads as my bikes with hydro makes sense.

There's always mixed opinions on BB7 vs Spyre. I personally had Spyre brakes on 3 bikes, but BB7 only on my Dads runaround. But basically both can work fine given a certain amount of fiddling.

My GRX 600 levers are quite good with MT520 4 pot calipers, much stopping.