I am a frame builder AMA

I looked into this a lot a couple of weeks ago but from what I can see, no.

i might be overthinking this, but i'm welding a mild steel home-made gear hanger to this pompino dropout. TIG.

i think the frame is 4130 (though no guaranteeing that the dropout is) and the hanger is bog standard mild steel cut from some angle. both ~6mm.

i had a quick google to see if there would be anything to worry about and i see people talking about preheat and using an ER-70S2 filler, which i have.

method wise, i was going to grind a slight bevel in to both pieces, tack x2 front and back and do a full run at the front and the back.

any bright ideas?

Yeah sounds good, er70 joins many things so I'm sure it'll be fine on the filler front, unless something is stainless or especially hard, which is unlikely.

I wouldn't preheat, that's more applicable for stuff that's thicker, where there is a risk of the bead cooling at a drastically different rate to the rest or the part

cheers. That's good cos I don't have a blowtorch!

No worries, also i like how you got both blood and plaster in the image, captures the story very accurately i think

slipped hacksaws cut deep :(

Ritchey breakaway. Available to hobbyists?

oof yeah thats an unpleasant one

I was sure another builder up here had done one recently but just looked at their instas and canny find it...

In fact, I think they did an s&s in the dt and just made their own version of the st bit.

Can't find his name on here but here is his instagram post. If we are thinking of the same one.

@PhilDAS think you could ask a ritchey for the downtube clamp and fabricate the seat post bit your self? I've never seen the down tube connection up close, presumably it has some lip on it. Probably quite hard to do though.

Does anyone have a spare 160mm length of 1 1/8” 30mm ID headtube?
:)

That's @retrodirect/glowbike if I recall their username correctly

Anyone want a beyond economical repair Brian Rourke frame to mess about with? Seat tube hole, down tube prob rusted and maybe the stays - Hard to tell as it was chromed at one point.

Forks are good though and are prob 531 so will prob keep them for something, or could sell for £40.

Collection N19

Can I see it? Maybe interested

Heres the ebay phot. If you're keen then I can get some actual photos but the hole in the st is where the W is on the st

What's the best way to figure out the right AC for a forkless frame with no geo chart available, given that you have decided on the rake?

If you know the BB drop, you could draw or plum line from the rear dropouts to the front axle fairly accurately. If you know the rake too then you should be able to draw a line through the headtube to the line that intersects the axles, add the rake and measure the axle to crown that way after accounting for headset stack.

Can you make an educated guess at the seat angle and bb drop?

Should the frame have a horizontal top tube by any chance?

Sounds good; gonna try that. Thanks! Edit: Hm, you need a bit more info right? For example HA and where it is in space. Or do you mean do this in real life?

@M_V: Bb drop, pretty sure. SA, less sure. Yes, level top tube.

With a flat toptube then you can easily work out the head and seat angles. If you have an iphone, use the angle finder, zero it on the top tube and then you'll get the head and seat angles straight out the phone (watch out for side buttons. My old SE had one perfectly flat side but new 2nd gen SE has buttons on either side).

If you have any cad software or are good with scale drawings you can take those angles, measure all the tubes and draw the basic double diamond shape up, doesn't need any detail, just lines, then you can extend the headtube line down, add in your rake and measure the a2c.

I meant to do it in real life really but as M_V says, you could draw it out in software pretty easily with a few measurements.

Thanks lads. I guess there's no escaping needing the angles.

Fairly basic request. Does anyone know of a source for a spare sleeve for T47 Bb (CK, obvs)? I've managed to munch one during installation.

If I'd want to ride a frame before powder coating it what would my options be? If it makes powder coating more complicated it's not worth it, but would like to build it up first and then a couple of rides will be hard to resist.

I suppose it depends on how long I'd want to wait, 2 rides should be fine as is as long as I clean it after? How about a month? Or 4 months? Oiling the outside will probably be a sticky mess and hard to remove? Wax? Or should I just get it coated as soon as possible?