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• #3152
Decathlon
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• #3153
Try the orignal B7M mount, its stainless and shorter so maybe stiffer
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• #3154
DM me for licencing rights
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• #3155
Hiya,
I had Spa build me one earlier in the summer for an Arkose that I've since sold so got a ready built rim with SPD hub, 6 bolt disc I'd be happy to sell + post for less than what Spa charge me. PM me if you're interested!
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• #3156
I use a post mount adaptor for this, and then the light sits the right way up without sticking out too far, will try and find you a pic
EDIT: different eyelet but you get the idea
Its very stiff for a mount
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• #3157
The problem is I actually need the articulated mount to be sideways because the bosses on the fork are pointed slightly backwards rather than 90 degrees to the front of the bike.
So if I use a 90 degree adapter like I think you're referring to, and then have the light the right way up, I can only adjust it up and down but it'll point to the right instead of straight ahead -
• #3158
ah ok, fair enough, but one idea could be to use the washers/spacers from a V-brake pad to 'toe in' the light?
also looks like those forks have an eyelet above the TA hole?
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• #3159
Maybe you could twist the PM adapter a bit? Clamp the lower half in a vice and try to twist it with a screwdriver through the upper hole.
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• #3160
also looks like those forks have an eyelet above the TA hole?
They do, I could use that but it will need to have a mudguard stay on there too.
I'll try some things out
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• #3161
I currently had my rack stay and the above mount on the same eyelt.
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• #3162
Officially up and running.
How careful do I have to be with these electric bits when washing the bike?
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• #3163
How careful do I have to be with these electric bits when washing the bike?
Avoid spraying water on the front of the light as it can get in around the seal on the glass, otherwise you're good.
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• #3164
This Seven has a nifty little bracket which sits between fork crown and headset
https://www.instagram.com/p/CFUhkbXs7RJ/?igshid=zn8s70b7159p
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• #3165
And it’s offset (out of the way of spray).
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• #3166
Neat! It would still need a new fork for me though since I’ve the integrated crown race (which I shouldn’t actually be using since it’s the wrong angle for my Chris King headset)
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• #3167
Its fucked up is what it is. Either needs mad accurate machining to achieve the same interface as crown race or it fucks the headset up. Just get a diff fork ffs.
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• #3168
Finally wired up my rear light mounted to the pannier rack. Maybe a lack of imagination but I couldn’t really think of a satisfactory method to route the wire from frame along rack to light.
Did consider drilling a hole or two in the rack.. which I guess is reasonable? Not like I’m carrying super heavy stuff on it.
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• #3169
More news presently on if this all still works.
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• #3170
Not really, as long as it's a nice flat sheet. There's no reason for it to be tight to the headset cup. and as long as the headset cup is long enough, then it'll have plenty of grip in the frame still.
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• #3171
I’ve worked rear cables through rack tubes on a couple of bikes, it’s fine so far. Faff getting it through obvs.
One of them (a tubus) had an open end of the tube, so it was pretty easy to drill, and feed the wire through from that end down to the open end. Watch out you remove burrs around your drillings so you don’t split your cable housing.
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• #3172
Delete the centre section of the B&M mount, makes it much stiffer.
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• #3173
Good tip, thanks!
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• #3174
I've lost the mount altogether and gone for an out front gopro mount with the light attached directly. Had to file the plastic mount of the light a little to get it to fit but now it's solid
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• #3175
Wonder if august cycles could do a batch of CK compatible headset races which have this mod built in. He already does a 1.25 steerer race for Hope 1.5 headsets.
This is a problem.
I’d rather not have to use a battery light alongside but this seems the only way.