Gravel / Gravé / Gnarmac / Groad / ATB

I assume these would work for the rear:

https://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Wheels/Spares/Switch-Lever-Thru-Axles

Interesting. I'd not seen those before (and I had looked).

"100 x 12 GW 120mm Axle
Replacement front Switch Lever Thru axle for the RTD, 4S Disc and CX Race Evo Thru Axle framesets"

"142 x 12 GW 163mm Axle
Replacement rear Switch Lever Thru axle for our Tripster AT, RTD, 4S Disc and CX Race Evo frames"

They look like what I have on the Mason.

It doesn't say the front is for the Tripster but I assume it will work.

100 x 12 GW 120mm Axle
Lightweight 7075 aluminium hollow shaft 12mm Thru axle
120mm overall length
13mm thread length
M12 x 1.5mm thread pitch

142 x 12 GW 163mm Axle
Lightweight 7075 aluminium hollow shaft 12mm Thru axle 163mm overall length 15mm thread length M12 x 1.5mm thread pitch

Everything seems identical with the stock Tripster Fork axle apart from thread length

12mm axle with 100mm spacing.
Axle length measures 120mm.
Thread pitch 1.5 and thread length 12mm.

Would 1mm of thread length matter?

Would 1mm of thread length matter?

Unlikely. Is it shorter or longer? The thread sticks out the other side on my Tripster a couple of mm already anyway and if it's simply more thread on the end, it'll still stop turning when it's tight, there might just be a little more thread inside the hub.

The existing Tripster fork Axle is 1mm shorter than those replacement ones

Just get an Arkose?
Or CDF I know some equilibriums (maybe all) can only take up to32mm

I just measured my thread and it's basically 13mm anyway. Maybe they've measured actual thread on one, whereas on the other they included the gap between full axle diam. and the threaded bit, which adds a mm.

Cool so conclusion is that those levers should work for us both front and rear?

I reckon so, yeah.

Word of warning. Those removable levers get loose and rattle so I don't use them. I just carry a 5 or 6mm (whatever size it is) allen key with me rather than leaving the levers in the axles.

Yeah I'd be ditching the removable part.

My tripster came with these TA - https://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/Catalogue/Wheels/Spares/Switch-Lever-Thru-Axles

We'll have to draw the line at steel stanchions, this is a fitness bike and not a gravel bike.

I think in Europe they call them cross bikes when they have a suspension fork.

But then what do they call cross bikes??

A hybrid is a vélo tous-chemins

Huh, I always thought they called the le Arkose

Cyclocross!

By the way. The sound that resonates in alu frames on rough roads, not to think about gravel is something i could never get on when choosing a bike to have fun with. Has anyone ever had an alu bike on a trainer and then switched for a steel frame. It's a blessing on its own.

Le bitwin

I rode an alu frame around Badlands. You can't hear shit over the sound of brake squeal, chain slap and rocks pinging off rims (and obviously me swearing at rocks).

Ta, there the ones we're talking about so I reckon they're good to go :)

Ok so August bikes have changed business model and don't want my money.

Therefore I need suggestions for a Gromuter with internal routing (like the Ribble CGR) but biggerer tyres (like the Ribble Adventure) as I want fat tyres with mudguards or light knobblies on occasion.
Mounting points for stuff, mudguards and racks a necessity, dynamo goodness and thruaxles yaddayadda.

Alternatively any other custom builders worth talking to, probably want someone who can interpret my ramblings into a bike.

Needs to work with my spares box di2 setup and broken knee 44/24 double. Want steel also because wtfn.

Therefore I need suggestions for a Gromuter with internal routing (like the Ribble CGR) but biggerer tyres (like the Ribble Adventure) as I want fat tyres with mudguards or light knobblies on occasion.
Mounting points for stuff, mudguards and racks a necessity, dynamo goodness and thruaxles yaddayadda.

https://bikepacking.com/index/650b-gravel-bikes/ is a pretty comprehensive list to get you started