Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

The pads and rotors have done fewer than a hundred miles.

I can't inspect them as I know less than fuck all about disc brakes.

Spring touching rotor. How do I tell?

I will look closer later and maybe take pics.

I can't inspect them as I know less than fuck all about disc brakes.

Now is the perfect time to learn.

Does it happen just once when you pull the levers? Could be the pads 'setting' against the calliper as the lever is first pulled. Spyres are well known for this, problem is worse with the original pads, better with Shimano.

That sounds like it. They are Spyre brakes.

I've got an issue with my front brake where the lever gets progressively closer to the bar when braking over the course of a ride. It's been freshly bled and was rock solid at the beginning of the ride. Is it a busted seal/leaky piston? It's an Ultegra 8070 caliper.

Does it still feel firm or has it gone mushy?

If mushy, air is getting in somewhere, might have been hiding in the reservoir. If the brakes are getting squeaky then calliper could be dead.

If it’s firm but the bite point has changed it’s something mechanical.

All that @Howard said, and check your pads. I may go through a set in challenging conditions.

It's firm but the bite point has changed. Could worn pads and rotor cause this? Or should the excess oil in the reservoir account for this?

Bite point shouldn't change as pads wear out. Might be an adjuster somewhere loosening off and affecting the mechanics of the lever, resulting in more throw?

That said, if you pump the brakes, does the bite point sort itself out at all?

True but once I got trough a whole pad they really go soft. Also, the throw adjustment may undo itself slightly on very bumpy rides. That's for SRAM road but may just be the same case with Shimano.

True but once I got trough a whole pad they really go soft.

That's because your brakes were not bled properly.

Hmmmm I did adjust the lever stroke to reduce the bite point, maybe that's rattled loose (it is on my gravel bike). I'll have a look at that and also just try re-bleeding the fucker again overnight with the lever strapped to the bar. Thanks for the pointers.

Any one used Paul Klampers with Campagnolo ?

@JB, in about 6 months, probably

Lots of people on the paceline forum have. There's a Campag specific caliper, I believe? People that have used that combination say they're good. Here you go:

https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=256433

Thanks Jb will take a look

how much mineral oil should be leaking out of the top of my shimano brifter? Just swapped the calliper, brake block is in, rolled the hoods back and it looks kind of oily up there....

I think I know the answer to this...

how much mineral oil should be leaking out of the top of my shimano brifter?

none

Positive thinking: It's not leaking it's just leftover from the last bleed that didn't get tidied away.

Ok what if the brakes are fine, but they go soft overnight, but if I pump them theyre fine again, but they go soft overnight again

Go for a full bleed.

@snottyotter what is the cheapest 2 pot BH-90 caliper can I buy?

I guess the newest deore, but probs best to check at si.shimano.com , I think the acera ones might still spec bh59. They're out of stock at the distributor so whatever you can find online ftw.

ah ok, found XT M8100 for around £30 each

There’s an over pressure valve under the hood on some Shimano road shifters, and it can open if the pistons are separated too forcefully or the system is bled very aggressively. Was the oil on the top or on the sides/bottom of the hood?