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• #8177
GravelKing SK 35s under PDW 45s on my V3.
Wheel is about as far back as I’d go, but it works. -
• #8178
Nice, that’s the same frame that I have. Looks like you’ve got decent clearance between the tyre and guard?
As an aside, I’ve ridden and know of lots of people who have ridden with their wheel a fair bit further back in the dropout and it’s been totally fine.
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• #8179
I have 37mm conti sport contacts under 45mm sks bluemels on a v4. Wheel is about as far back as it will go, I did actually have to get a half link chain to get a good chain tension with the reduced amount of adjustment I had but it now works fine.
Can confirm tyres are not good for skidding, they're pretty worn down without many skids.
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• #8180
Thinking of selling my Pompino - OG Pomp with a carbon fork. Anyone able to advise what's a sensible price for it complete?
(Excuse the saddle angle, it's just a place holder)Now sold
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• #8181
replaced the fake Jones Jeff bars with Gusset Stash, feels much nicer.
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• #8182
^ might even sort the cables one day.
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• #8183
does anyone happen to know the tube wall thickness(es) of a pomp? specifically the DT about an inch/inch and a half from the BB?
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• #8184
Tempted to buy one of those newfangled derailleur hangers for it and frankengear it..
Has anyone used a track dropout adapter before?
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• #8185
Has anyone used a track dropout adapter before?
Briefly. I used the DMR one.
Something to consider is that you’ll probably have to cold set the rear out a bit and it seems that the Pomps that have failed have done so at the chainstay/bb area which is the area you’ll be stressing if you cold set it.
I used a 120mm spaced 5 speed screw on hub but they are pretty rare so more likely you’ll end up using a 127 or 130mm hub.
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• #8186
Rack I.D?
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• #8187
I'm in the process of spacing mine out to 130 and welding a hanger on. Could be a disaster but let's see.
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• #8188
Same experience as @M_V but with 130old 10 speed, no cold set which was risky given Pomp failure modes and a PITA getting wheel in and out etc. Rode to Bristol, loaded (didn’t skip a beat) then disassembled for no other reason than no longer needed.
TL;DR DMR hangar works as advertised and if you’re going to do it, cold set and forget.
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• #8189
Your mum's
(Specialised rack before they were the Pizza Rack)
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• #8190
Turns out finding an old 120mm wheel with a screw on freehub is harder than I thought. But Ebay has a freewheel with 3 cogs on it, wonder if that would work without going to the extreme of cold setting.
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• #8191
If three gears are all you need why not Sturmey or Torpedo or some other igh?
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• #8192
Maybe put a 6mm shorter spacer on this (plus cut the axle):
https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/hubs/products/zenith-freewheel-hubsor respace a rear track hub a bit
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• #8193
A cheap bodge is the order of the day!
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• #8194
Been lurking all your tips and great Pompinos for a while. Finally put together my own one. I can see why they are so loved!
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• #8195
Any progress with respacing and adding gears? Do you have a current project for that?
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• #8196
it's next on my list! just need work to ease up a bit. i have a kind of CP thread for it when i was intending to run it 120mm disc (not really doable) so i might just add some updates there.
waiting on the braze-on cable stops and need a couple of hours to manually cut out a hanger to weld on to the track end. i also discovered a crack but long story short i'm not gonna worry about it. it's half a day's work (plus painting) but work is just mad at the moment.
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• #8197
oh, great I subbed that thread, I'm realy interested how it turns out
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• #8198
I rode mine yesterday for the first time in a while and, after 15 minutes, the LH crank came loose.
This has happened once before, last year. I've had the bike for 10 years this month so that's not too bad, but a bit annoying.
I had a multi-tool so could get it back on and it stayed on all day but need to sort it out so it doesn't happen again.
The chainset is a no-namer, silver, external bearings, with two opposing bolts on the LH crank like a Shimano Hollowtech. I think I must have lost the equivalent of the Shimano plastic tensioning screw, as there is just a hole where it would be and it doesn't look right. I'd like to replace whatever went there, especially if it helps me get the crank at the right tightness.
I did a search of this thread and got a couple of references to cranks falling off so seems like a thing, but didn't get the answer: so anyone know what the chainset is and what the bit that I seem to have lost looks like?
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• #8199
Generally known as a shimano crank arm bolt I think. the originals are plastic, but ebay has a range of alu ones. https://www.ebay.co.uk/b/shimano-crank-bolt/bn_7024943602
The sizing is odd - they come in 15,18 and 20mm flavours, so you need to do some measuring to work out what will work for your cranks.
Caution - I had some ali-express knock off shimano like mountain bike cranks that apparently use a strange bolt between the 18 and 20mm options. i bought both, but neither fit and the only way is apparently asking an ali-express seller to send you one. My cranks have just gone deep into the parts bin instead.
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• #8200
shimano crank arm bolt
Thanks, I never thought of actually just trying a Shimano one to see if it fits! That's the first thing to do. Then I can measure if it doesn't fit and hit ebay.
That link gives me an error, BTW, but I get the idea.
Yeah they seem to fit fine. I did have the fork drilled through. If I recall correctly the fork has a hole drilled in the front but made sense to get it done. The support between the fork and rack is upside down on mine. I did this as the cantilever swaddle cable/stop was in the way otherwise
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