Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

You just hit it harder with the hammer, didn't you?

Pretty much

How can I get a sm btr2 battery to work with an older external di2 system? It works fine with btr1.

Is it a firmware issue or will it just not work? Ew67 junction, everything else recent ultegra level.

Should work. Probably just a firmware issue.

Cool, I'll give that a go - actually if anyone has a wireless unit they want to shift then let me know.

Shimano’s compatibly chart says you can only use EW67A with an external battery, and explicitly rules out your combination:

“SM-EW67-A-E (Junction [A]) is not compatible with SM-BCR2 and SM-BTR2.”

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?cid=C-472&acid=C-473

It still might work in practice, but you’re paddling uphill.

Good point. I was thinking I'd got a Di2 system with an EW67 junction box working with an internal battery, but thinking back that was an external battery that I'd hacked to turn into an internal battery.

It appears from this that the EW67 used to work with a BTR2, but Shimano broke it when they stopped 10/11 speed mismatched systems. Presumably on the basis that with an EW67 and an internal battery you've no way of charging the battery without disassembling everything.

Yes I suppose this makes sense, but I had a workaround for charging already lined up so had hoped it would just work.

This is annoying, it's a TT bike where it would be nice to hide the battery. I could switch to a Junction A at a stretch, hidden in the bento box.

Could you use a bar-end Junction A in the end of one of the extensions? The bar end units are a bit spenny, but it would be a very tidy setup.

Alas

I was thinking about inserting it at the other end. Would mean drilling a hole in the extensions, but if your extensions protrude genitalwards from the extension clamps that shouldn't be an issue as that part won't be under any load.

Ah yeah, that's a good solution.

Alas

Yeah, me too. I take it yours isn't on a P5 if you're looking to fit a BTR2/BN110?

I'm very slowly modding a P2 (got the Aduro's very cheap), actually the bits I needed for doing the whole front fairing turned up today. Just need to sell some bits to fund a non-UCI P5 fork, they come up on eBay from time to time.

I've got this in my big pile'o'forks going spare if it's any good. Got the nosecone and the brake covers somewhere too.

1 Attachment

Get out! Just what I'm after...

Let me check the steerer length minimum I need (58cm frame although I've cut it a fair bit).

Get out! Just what I'm after...

It is a very big pile...

Let me check the steerer length minimum I need (58cm frame although I've cut it a fair bit).

The steerer on that fork is 174mm long.

Any reason I shouldn't use the older 11 speed di2 front mech, mixed with newer shifters and rear mech?

Specially the 6870 front mech. Being offered one for a good price.

You can't mix/match front rear 10/11spd https://road.cc/sites/default/files/Shimano%20Di2%20compatibility%20chart.pdf.

It used to work but with later software it wont.

Nah that'll be fine, it's what I've got on my gravel bike.

Ditto. I have two bikes set up like that.

Recently my bike with di2 has been slow to shift down the cassette (to the smaller cogs), but only for 3 specific cogs: 2nd largest to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, and 4th to 5th. Shifting up the cassette is very quick. Shifting down across all other cogs is fine.

The chain was just over 50% worn so I replaced it. However, the issue persists, and I've now realised it does it across 3 different cassettes (2 wheelsets and turbo).

The mech hanger doesn't appear bent, and is only about 18 months old. The derailleur appears to be tight on the hanger. I've had the bike for 3.5 years now and shifting has always been perfect until a week ago.

Any ideas to help me diagnose and fix the issue? I'll plug in eTube and update the firmware if it needs it later. However, I'm struggling to think why/how there could be an issue with just 3 downshifts. Typically a bent hanger, or needing to micro-adjust, would result in the shifting being off over the whole cassette.

If this was mechanical you'd put it down to something fouling the cable release. Obs with Di2 anything which prevents the jockeys moving outbound must be in the rear mech and this does sound like a 'mechanical issue' rather than electronic (motor or software). Have you given it a really good clean off the bike to get into all those nooks and crannies? Perhaps a twig or leaf that could be slowing down but not preventing the release?
It is also possible to change the parallelogram part so it would be worth checking that is nice and secure. possibly a jockey wheel lose or worn?