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• #7702
JIS screwdrivers.
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• #7704
Fuckin' "standards" again.
DIY JIS = Philips with a fat hippy behind it.
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• #7705
Putting a bit of weight behind it? Your poor bikes. Apparently grinding off the tip of a regular Phillips gets you almost JIS so you might be onto something there. I think that’s what Park’s regular screw drivers are in effect.
They do make a nicebutpricey JIS thing too.
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• #7706
I guess I ruined enough bolt/screw heads as a younger me that I'm pretty good at knowing when something's about to let go and risk rounding out so I tend not to ruin much these days.
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• #7707
I'm well out the bike loop now but I'm looking to sort my galaxy out so I can do some light tours again. Can you get a similar range with a modern 2x group compared to the 80s 3x7 it currently has? Would that be mtb or road?
I guess the problem is that it has canti brakes so sti's won't have the right cable pull? Please help, thanks
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• #7708
What cassette does it have on the back wheel? Probably a 7spd screw on. The cheapest way to get lower gears is typically to use a massive rear cassette. But you'd likely be limited by your 7s (possibly screw on) hub and current rear derailler capacity.
I'm well out of the loop on MTB stuff but I wonder if there isn't a group that will play nicely with cantis? Maybe have a look at what the CX racers use (before they all went to disc brakes).
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• #7709
Cantis have the same cable pull as STIs/road levers.
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• #7710
Oh, maybe I'm thinking of v brakes
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• #7711
But different version STIs have different cable pull so that can't always be true.
https://forum.bikeradar.com/discussion/12651624/shimano-brake-caliper-compatibility
"the new 6700 levers pull more (brake) cable than the older Ultegra STI, hence if you use them with non-6700 calipers you'll get less power and a firm lever.
Conversely, if you use non-6700 STI with new 6700 calipers then you'll get plenty of power but a spongey lever.
It's all about leverage - you can either have short cable pull with plenty of force, or lots of cable pull with less force. The 6700 STI now pulls more cable, so needs the new calipers to match them.
[you can replace "6700" with "7900" in the above passage, as they are the same design]
It's like cantilevers and V-brakes. V brake levers pull much more cable than cantilever levers."
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• #7712
Didn't know that. Although upon further investigation, I don't think the difference in cable pull of 6700 levers compared to other STIs is as different as cantis are to V-brakes:
I've used a variety of brake calipers with 6700 shifters; 6700, 7800, 6600, TRP, SRAM among others. While there is a difference in the brake actuation cable pull, my experience is that it is so small and is more than made up for when I switch out the standard brake pads for Kool Stop salmon pads. I've experienced no degradation of braking performance in any way when using the above combinations.
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• #7713
Yeah, I don't know what's what, I just know that some models of lever will be shit with some calipers. I remember people having this issue when they introduced the 7900 stuff and that's why I stuck with 7800 caliper on my fixed.
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• #7714
Didn't see this reply, sorry. I'm not averse to getting a new wheelset and going more modern. Bit sentimental about the frame but I think the parts have had their day.
Basically I was wondering if I could just get say r7000 105 or new tiagra and get the same range I've got now. I'll check out cx guys though!
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• #7715
Would a 12 speed Sram crankset work with an 11 speed group? I'm after some sub-compact goodness
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• #7716
I have some praxis cranks, 48/32 rings and an m30 bottom bracket (BNIB) I could sell ya.
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• #7717
Yeah, cantis and calipers (and road cable discs) are short pull but there's a bit of variation in that, with cantis you can adjust that a bit by messing with the straddle cable height, but best to throw them in the bin and get some mini Vs, regular Vs and MTB cable discs are long pull.
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• #7718
But then Shimano Sora 353 V brakes officially don’t work with road levers ... but actually work really well.
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• #7719
Looking at all the usual euro/german retailers but can the hive mind show any links to the cheapest full Red or Force axs groupsets? Please and thank you!
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• #7720
I fitted Chorus yesterday. About to take it for a spin. Feedback to follow but initial impressions, as a first time Campagnolo user, are very positive.
It feels very, very mechanical and I really like that. The audible clunk when changing gears is something I enjoy a lot. Shimano by comparison was ultra silent and light to the touch, but it lacked a certain je ne sais quois by comparison.
Hood shape and size is also far, far superior, for my small hands anyway.
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• #7721
thanks ! imy last experience of campag was veloce in 2010 so that's good to hear. i remember it being stable but going sloppy reaching the end of its life. must admit i am totally taken by the look of campag 12.
Shimano hoods come in all shapes and sizes though, 6870 levers are probably half the size of 8020 -
• #7722
Yeah, I of course have no idea how it'll be in the long run but initial impressions are great. Gears shift with such positivity. Really like how much feedback you get from the group. Braking is fantastic, too. Hoods are again, so comfortable. Can't really say much more than that at the moment but I am happy!
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• #7723
perfect, very grown-up bike !( no irony ).
zondas are definitly underappreciated wheels too. what are the bars ? -
• #7724
Looks great
I love campag as prefer the hoods
Had chorus 11 for years on a bike & still shifting is perfect , always use genuine campag cables -
• #7725
The bars are a pair of Fizik Cyrano R3 Snake in 38mm. The 38cm is important for me because the 38cm have 75mm reach/125mm drop. Whereas the 40, 42 and 44cm have 80mm reach/130mm drop which is not what I wanted.
Fizik also measure hood to hood not center to center, so these are actually a 40mm bar according to most other brands measuring technique.
@MRI - yeah, the shifters, which cost $188 came with the $100 new 'Maximum Smoothness' (ha) cable set. They're nice cables, but they aren't $100 nice!
Internal routing means there's often not somewhere nice to grab a handful of cable and settle everything in properly, best way to do it ( without a fourth hand tool) is clamp the cable, hold the mech, shift against your hand, pull any slack through and repeat. Then you're unlikely to have this happen when the bikes being ridden, throwing out your carefully set up mech.