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• #23527
The frame could be warped, if it's timber.
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• #23528
Great thanks - Francis made it a little tricky but managed to get there in the end :)
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• #23529
Most people would love a service that gave them a paint they could touch up with. Sadly I don't think it works. The texture of the paint changes as it ages and the pigments in the paint fade, new pigments can try and achieve a similar tone but it never seems to match everywhere.
You can get a close match and paint just one wall with one thin coat. If you have some remains from when it was first painted that's a good way top freshen a wall if you've had to repair some damage. Always best to wash the wall with sugar soap before you start and use some wonder wipes to get any black marks off. I've tidied up a few tenancy hallways with that method.
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• #23530
Home.by.me
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• #23531
fanks mrs patterson
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• #23532
It wasn't actually a joke by... it actually exists... https://home.by.me/en/
Its pretty decent and beats trying to learn Sketch up which is hell. -
• #23533
I didn't get any takers on the PC tech thread so I'll ask here before starting up a new thread.
Anyone want 100m or so of CAT6 cable for a forum donation. Also have some lengths of twin and earth, earth cable and coax to give away (maybe somewhere between 20-40m, they're on spools so hard to tell) and a few other random bits and pieces (back boxes, earth bonding straps, etc) if anyone wants a lucky dip.
Collection from N15.
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• #23534
Ooh, I would be interested in the Cat6 reel please.
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• #23535
We want to make a WFH office / Studio table in our new place. That can also be pushed to the side to make room for inflatable mattress
My rough plan is:
- 2x Standing Desk 'frames' (no worktop) (i.e, fully or similar)
- Castors at each 4 corners on each frame
- Some sort of wood worktop on each (ikea kitchen worktop?)
Then fix the legs together as tightly as possible, so the gap inbetween the two worktops is minimal and both can be independent heights, but also be matched, and hopefully be as flush as we can get them at the same height.
Anyone opinions on:
- manual vs electric standing desks
- work surfaces
- how to fix the two frames together
- 2x Standing Desk 'frames' (no worktop) (i.e, fully or similar)
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• #23536
£16k of wooden sash windows.
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• #23537
gulp
they do look lovely though. How long to install?
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• #23538
Out of interest what made you replace the existing set? Are they beyond repair or had they been replaced with some plastic garbage?
New ones are going to look amazing. Do they have any modern features or are they faithful reproduction?
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• #23539
Yep, those and plastering the walls are the biggest expenses in the house. 8 days I think. There are 13 windows and a set of doors.
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• #23540
OMG, the exiting ones are a joke. Badly fitted UPVC crap and just insanely specced. Here is the front of the house. Each of those huge windows can only open from the top section, on a tilt.
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• #23541
I'm going to make a large mezzanine bed and will be putting some plans together this weekend. It will be built onto three weight bearing walls, so that won't be a problem. There are lots of images on pinterest etc., but wondered whether anyone on here had built one?
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• #23542
is it having any supports at all or is it just attached to the walls?
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• #23543
Stops the kids / pets climbing out I guess. But yeah. Silly.
Place we are trying to buy has original sash and single glazing. Wondering what maintenance headaches I'm getting myself in to.
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• #23544
I'm planning to anchor it to the three walls supported by 4 x 2 batons bolted in, with vertical supports beneath these on the walls on all four corners. I'll then run joists across is and lay plywood, with holes cut beneath where the mattress will lie. It will take a double mattress with room for a small table, light, etc. and there is good head height. I'm still working out which way to put the stairs, depending on the gradient.
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• #23545
Are you having the bay windows done also?
I'd be very interested in seeing how the window frames are lined up to the mullions.
One other ask - Can you take a close up of the guttering / flashing on the bay as it meets the wall? I'm trying to work out the best (& most visually appealing) way flash our bay, once we get round to removing the cement filleting and repairing the curmbling brickwork where the gutter goes in.
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• #23546
Don't know if you can make it out but they also have those weird bullseye panels in all the front windows. I have no idea why anyone would ever do that.
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• #23547
Oh god yeah.
Probably what the cowboy double glazing company had left over.
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• #23548
Yes. They are starting with the bay today.
I'll take a photo tomorrow.
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• #23549
Mine ended up with the glass held in by duck tape ...
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• #23550
Take it easy opening and closing them. I've had the ropes jump off the pulleys on mine and it's near impossible to get back without destroying the rope.
Lift the door off and screw in/out the offending half.
Frame half for compression.
Sash half for lateral adjustment.
Obviously you'll have to do a full turn, which may be too much for the compression of the sash closing against the frame. You don't want it hinge bound as something will break sooner or later.