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• #23502
6 weeks is a decent amount of time. I don't know lime very well but I don't think it crystallises like plaster. It would be interesting to know how it hardens. In all honesty I was surprised how little difference it made painting on it using the lime paint. It was a good finish as well. The client told me she didn't need it to look so good! Fun times working for her :) Was a really lovely house. Oldest sash windows I've ever worked on.
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• #23503
Ask here - it's my goto for that sort of question
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• #23504
I want to see the mums net | period property | LFGSS venn diagram please.
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• #23505
plaster and paint work is mysterious ways, it seems.
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• #23506
It's a massive subject. I wish I'd studied chemistry a bit harder. I used to make my own paints, I still have the whole kit to do it but fashion has not been kind to the artistic decorator for the last 20 years.
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• #23507
My painter mate talks about ‘paint systems’ - undercoats expand and contract with the paint so best to keep to the same maker. He ballocked me for using the wrong undercoat with a gloss on our front door. Who knew?
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• #23508
Don't believe it till airhead says it.
But does seem to be the thing with automotive paints.
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• #23509
I believe it! Unfortunately I don’t have the funds to pay him - even with mates rates!
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• #23511
It is getting that way now. I still want to get to a fully moisture vapour permeable exterior system that stain blocks pine that has been stripped. I was happy for years with the Dulux oil based systems gloss exterior and eggshell interior. It was very toxic though.
I'm also into brushes and have brushes dating back 30 or more years which still get an outing for specific reasons.
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• #23512
Have you used Bauwerk or any of the other lime paints?
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• #23513
No but it looks really nice.
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• #23514
I enjoyed working with it, things got a bit tense on the 3rd coat of the ceiling mind! I’m going to use it in the bathroom too now that I’ve had time to recover!
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• #23515
Seems to be a thing now.
Hence automotive paint people won't let you prep cars before they paint. The last two paint jobs I had were shit, all because of their bad prep and not listening to me.
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• #23516
Figured out my solder woes, wrong flux for the solder and the local shops don't have the right flux. FFS
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• #23517
I was discussing this week with some specialist painters a technique I used to practice in the early 90's. We would have rooms painted with an oil based distemper and then take a small pot of heavily pigmented distemper and sponge it on the wall. It also worked with varnish on pine and a team of us did a ski chalet with that technique. The distemper factory burnt down and it's not quite the same with emulsion.
I look forward to it's return to fashion because it payed quite well !
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• #23518
I had thought about it but as I’ll probably only be using this version for 2yrs And the ceiling is already not that high, it seemed un-necessary. Although now I’m really tempted by a log burner!
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• #23519
Yes it really does sound fascinating when it gets to that level. I have much more mundane worries hehe, like getting a colour match with the existing paint. I will be taking some scraps of the peeling paint with me and then hopefully get some useful advice from the sales staff (optimistic these days I know).
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• #23520
Yeah makes sense. I've been reading quite a lot of folk who have installed log burners in vans and bell tents. There's loads of options out there I'm just trying to figure out the size/position of it. I can't imagine I could work in my "shed" past September on West Coast of Scotland so some source of heat is needed. I have a ready supply of fallen trees/logs nearby so it should be cheap to run once installed.
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• #23521
I think it sounds like a good idea and one I've added to the list for when we have a purpose built office built down the line. I've been thinking I might get one of those Dyson cooler/heater jobs in the meantime
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• #23522
If it's well insulated often an electric fan works well as it rapidly gets the air warm. Although it seems less efficient if you just have it on for a short period you use less power over all compared to something like an oil rad.
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• #23523
Door on log cabin doesn’t sit straight - I don’t know if it’s warped or if need to adjust hinges? Also not how to adjust this type of hinge? Part of me just thinks to add a turn button at the bottom to force it flush but sure this is a faux pas
2 Attachments
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• #23524
@Tenderloin I have had exact same issue.. Those hinges are just screwed in. I managed to adjust mine by screwing them in further and got the door closer to the frame. Still not perfect but lets less rain/wind in.
I'm trying to figure out how to seal them properly ready for the chills to come.
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• #23525
Where were the screw heads?
I think the options are lime wash or clay paints. I've been told wait a minimum of 6 weeks but not been told what is a good amount of time