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• #4002
Fill it with 3m 5200 if the casing isn't damaged.
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• #4003
I decided to take everyone’s advice. Gel super glued it for a ride today and have ordered a new one to replace it asap.
@pastry_bot you may well be right. My new wheels came taped though and I already had sealant and a tubeless pump so it seemed silly to buy old fashioned tubes given I had all the stuff. I note with interest that the new top spec SL7 comes with wheels that are not tubeless compatible... Still, lower pressures are comfier.
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• #4004
no one tells you about all the fscking gunk you get all over your frame when a tubeless tyre squirts. total pita getting that stuff off
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• #4005
Does 32mm count as skinny?
Also @cozey another reason for perma guards
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• #4006
Yeah. CyclingTips/Roval said:
According to Roval, the greater (compression) force put on a rim by a tubeless tyre requires extra material, “and that extra mass would have outweighed the benefits of tubeless tires”. As a result, Roval’s decision equates to lighter wheelsets.
“From the Roval side, we recognize the potential of tubeless road tires,” a company representative said. “We evaluate everything in a holistic perspective in the light of what’s best for the rider we’re aiming to serve.
“For now the performance balance tips in favor of tube-type wheel/tire systems for the performance road rider (unless you have a team mechanic to glue on tubulars and a follow car with a spare wheel in case you puncture). We will continue working to realize the benefits of tubeless road systems while reducing the drawbacks.” -
• #4007
true true, compromises the assthetic tho : (
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• #4008
why dont you buy a specialized then?
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• #4009
one thing I have learned from my most recent tubeless fail: sometimes you just can't remove the tubeless valve because the sealant has got inside the locknut and gunked it up, such that it won't even release with pliers. now, making sure your tubeless tape etc is all pristine before setting up a new tubeless tyre might mitigate this risk somewhat but we're not all perfect and sometimes you do a rush/bodge job and wack on a tyre without putting on fresh tubeless tape.
the only way I was able to get the valve off was to hacksaw it off : / oh well, glad to have learned this lesson while I was within reach of home and not e.g. in the middle of nowhere on the badger divide. I'll be carrying a hacksaw blade in my bikepacking kit from now on, in case this happens again
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• #4010
Some valves (like Muc-off) have flat sections on the lock-nut, so one of those with a little spanner might be enough?
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• #4011
The mucoff dust cap acts as a spanner
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• #4012
thanks. too late for this particular valve, which has been hacksawed but will bear those muc-offs in mind for future installs
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• #4013
sometimes you just can't remove the tubeless valve because the sealant has got inside the locknut and gunked it up
I have been in this position as well and purchased this valve core remover:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VALVE-CORE-REMOVER-TOOL-Presta-Schrader-Bicycle-MTB-Mountain-Road-Bike-Tubeless/183842957834Which I keep in my saddle bag...
ParkTools has a similar tool if you're allergic to chinese copies
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• #4014
it was the valve locknut that wouldn't shift sadly - I know people say to only do it up 'finger tight', which I did, but I think due to the poor taping, excess sealant had come out the rim and then got between the nut and the thread, and it just wouldn't budge
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• #4015
I've got an odd problem. My GP5000 TLs on Hunt something-disc-something-or-other seem to be leaking air but only where the hunt sticker is on the rim. Makes me wonder if it's where the rim is joined rather than the tyre. Is there any easy way to tell? I guess I could top up the sealant and leave the area with the puncture as the lowest point then pump them up again and see if it stops it?
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• #4016
Actually. Who knows. It’s stopped now so I guess the sealant i had in was enough after all.
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• #4017
I've gone tubeless on my summer bike. I got the 25mm gumwalls from Veloflex - Corsa Evo TLR. There's also a lighter 'race' version. I'm really impressed. Previously I had Pro-One 28mm on my wet/mudguard bike and didn't get on with them at all, then WTB exposure 30mm - really good, but they don't feel fast.
At first I was worried because the Veloflexes blew up looking smaller than the tubed 25mm tyres I had on before (Vittoria Corsa G+). I wondered whether I should have got the 28mm version, because they would probably fit. But I rode them today at 65psi, and I think they're the best feeling road tyres I've tried. The slight suspension you get at that pressure makes them feel fast, but not sloppy at all.
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• #4018
Hippy having a day https://twitter.com/firsthippy/status/1300472140144291841
Do you get the 1-inch green "powder coating" tape in the UK? One layer has done well on all my wheels (19-21mm internal). Thin but strong, you can stretch it so it conforms well all around and covers the whole bed + ~1mm up the sides.
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• #4019
It wasnt me that told him to get mucoff valves👎
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• #4020
I got the 25mm gumwalls from Veloflex - Corsa Evo TLR... ...I'm really impressed.
Yes so am I and I'd agree about them being the best feeling road tyres I've tried.
Also, I don't know what rims you're running them on but I've found them really easy to mount to my DT Swiss PR1400's.
Being 350tpi Italian tyres they are likely to stretch slightly over time so will probably end up wider than when you originally measured them.
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• #4021
^ If they’re like the non-tubeless master/corsa tyres then the compromise is mileage. The tread is just very thin.
Veloflex do traditionally size up a bit small.
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• #4022
I'll do a long term review in time when I remember - unfortunately putting big miles on them isn't happening at the moment...
Initial impressions are that the tread seems hard wearing. No cuts or signs of wear after about 350 miles including some dreadful Scottish roads ;)
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• #4023
Just mounted some WTB Byway (soapy water, milkit booster, all good). Brand new and there's a hole in the sidewall. Sealant has done its job but it seems stupid for a new tyre to have a puncture.
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• #4024
Take a picture and send it to WTB. They have great customer service (in my experience) and they will send you a new tyre, if needed.
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• #4025
Got a new set of Continental 5000 TL for my Lynskey so hopefully they'll perform better (puncture wise) than the Schwalbe PRO ONE TT TLE.
Those have been relegated to a bike I am selling (with inner tubes). Apologies to the person who wanted to try them - they are not worth your time/sealant
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Agreed, that tyre needs to go in the bin