Home DIY

Footing drains. We are seeing signs of damp inside around the corner at the far end of this drain (pic 2). The drain appears to drain this way - towards the house? Is the big blob of concrete at the far end normal? Looks purposeless and I wonder if it is forming a damp bridge of sorts..

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I've got a padlock with no key that I want to get off. Had a quick try with an oscillating multitool and a plunge cut metal blade (starlock fitting) and it made no impact. What should I be looking at, some kind of carbide grinding blade rather than something with teeth? Cheers

Got spanners?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBSSA5ot0tA

Didn't know spanners had such an exciting double life.

A small cheap angle grinder.

If anyone's reading this and knows about lock picking, I have a site box that's locked with two curtained mortice locks, which the internet tells me are hard but not impossible to pick.

anyone know the least destructive way to get in?

I do have spanners but the shackle is full. I think the easier option may be just to remove the whole hasp.

If you're going to run CAT5 cable in between rooms is it better to run a POE cable?

Backwards compatible isn't the right term, but basically can you use a POE cable without power if the device at the other end doesn't have / need power? So for e.g. if I wanted to just plug my compute into it to get internet connection there wouldn't be any issues.

Cheers

There's no such thing as a PoE cable. The whole point is that it can push power over a standard network cable. There are some cables that are designed to be more PoE-friendly (thicker cores, lower resistance) but they're still just network cables.

Electrical socket that doesn't work. What's the normal troubleshooting process?

Turn off the power to the circuit at the consumer unit. Remove the face plate. Check that there is no power. Check the condition of the wiring for obvious faults. Switch the power back on. Check the connections at the back of the socket for power.

If you have power at the back of the socket but not the front, replace the socket.

Otherwise you need to go a bit deeper and there are quite a few different ways to trace a problem but it's probably best you get someone with experience to help.

Contact local hack space to see if there are any lockpickers that fancy a challenge.

You can make the picks using old piano strings. The strings are the right material for the picks.

EDIT It is wire not springs.

Got a photo of the lock?

Cheap angle grinder/cordless will sort it.

i actually have as i'm a member! you need a special extra key for curtained locks apparently...

Cheers.

Can't remember, I visited obtained quite a few wires (not the string) from broken pianos. Visiting a piano refurbisher and grab an armful and traded them with the hackspace lock picks to be shown how to make the different picks.

It's nothing special, cheap angle grinder would do it but trying to avoid buying more stuff.

Are you in London and can you wait till next week?

Thanks, will start with that.

First step is to check other sockets in the vicinity and see if those work.

Then follow Airhead's steps.

Then investigate behind the nearest socket that does work (with the power off) as sockets are normally connected in chains.

Even with the power off, try to avoid touching any conductors.

A hacksaw. Unless it’s a particularly expensive padlock you’ll be through the shackle in minutes.

Lock impressioning.

Start off with a blank key (or 5) of the correct profile and a file. End up with a working key... Or some wasted time and scrap blanks

With picking, you'd get it open but still need to source a new key/levers set or replace the locks.

That's interesting. Never heard of it but will have a look. Thanks

Yes, I love my clients to tell me how small and insignificant the problem is only to discover it's rotten as a peach

As it turned out, the threshold wasn't too bad and would have been an easy repair. However the circa 30yo aluminium framed door which "only needs new handles" actually needs a replacement locking mechanism, the hinges are worn and both 16mm thick glazed units have failed. Scrap that.

The Repair Care was great to use for splicing on a new end to the window sill yesterday. Also filling in the dozen nail holes where the cabinet was attached to the sill and apron.

Really, what kinda person has the capacity to make a cabinet with routed mortice joints and a first fix nailer but chops off the end of a window sill. Fucking Cockwomble

Quite often not the workshop guys doing the installation. It's the bit that lets down most furniture and window companies.