Home DIY

Bastard massive housing association who own the flat above mine, yep!

I've had the same situation as you and the HA paid because they realised by not doing so they we being assholes.

They are still assholes, but they like to think they are not.

My particular housing association seem to have no qualms about their assholyness.

I hope it's sheds some light on it from a decorators point of view. Plasterers might view it differently. If you get 2 people in for an afternoon they can patch that pretty quickly and skim it. They probably won't want to come back and paint it but you should leave it for a few months to dry if it's plaster and you can tell the tenants that while you work out how to get it painted. A painter would be happier to come in a few months later and paint the entire ceiling. Maybe that's the best approach.

Thanks again! I'm happy to paint it (or my tenants have suggested they'd be up for it) but it's the fix that's beyond me. Your help has been invaluable to understand what I'm quoted tmw and i owe you a beer if our paths ever cross on a ride or elsewhere!

Track saw on composite decking board. It has adjustable speed. Any recommendations? I have one shot and want to get best possible result

No worries, I needed to be thinking about the process because of a job I'd been offered!

Ripping or crosscutting?

I have some samples, if you want to try on those?

I'm doing this at the weekend.

Would Easifill 60 or 20 be more suitable?

The patch is about 30cm x 30cm

Their pipe runs through your home and they are being dicks about it leaking!
Get a plumber to cap off the pipe that you don't need. or replace the inline connector that I mentioned before with a shutoff valve until they agree with the repairs.

Both actually, cross cut of them all to length, and one scribing to a door threshold.

@TW thanks, I have a few too actually, bit small though so not sure how I'll be able to test on them.

Isn't one more expensive because it drys quicker? I might be mixing some information though I don't use it often.

checked - you have 60 minutes working time with easifill 60. That would be useful if you were going round a room filling joints between plasterboard. easifill 20 has a 20 minute working time and short recoat time so that suits your job better.

I've not done the job but it doesn't sound as if you are going to be ripping huge lengths so a fine blade would be the first part. I don't often slow my saw down. I suppose I listen to it and adjust a bit if it's sounds odd.

Can you not take 3mm off the end of a board. That would be amazing if you had just the right amount of material to within 3mm :)

Can you not take 3mm off the end of a board. That would be amazing if you had just the right amount of material to within 3mm :)

Well you say that... 4m long boards, variance of 2mm between them, I'll be trimming a maximum of 2mm...

I paid a fortune for them, I'm using them all! Just also a little paranoid.

The rip is 3m long so not insignificant. But you're right it's more than 3mm so I'll do a test or two.

I had discounted you doing that rip, when you said threshold I was visualising something smaller. The popular size of track saw usually needs a blade with fewer teeth for a rip that long otherwise it will likely get bogged down at any speed.

No pressure then :)

Suggestions for best way to solve this problem please. Long edge of bath sits flush against wall, short edge is about 20mm gap down to 0mm. Build up the plaster? It's getting tanked and tiled

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Are you planning to tile? We have a similar gap and we're planning to put some tile backing board across it, flush with the edge of the bath not the wall, and pack the wide gap behind it then fill the top of that.

I think if I add any boards (it was tiled previously) the extra thickness added will mean the pipe above is too short for the shower unit to go back on, and I could really do without adding more plumbing to this job

The tap end wall is also only being half tiled up to the door, the rest is being painted

Fair enough, we're only tiling up about 8 inches off the top of the bath so we don't mind the extra thickness.

Careful application of low volume expanding foam?

The tiles won't overlap the bathtop though

Don't know what "tanked" refers to, and don't quite understand what you want to do there so just ignore me.

You could pack it out with tile adhesive to subtley cover the gap. Might look shit depending on the tile choice though.

Does it have to be tight up against that wall? Could you pull it away from the wall and build a little shelf, level with the top of the bath, to fill the non-square gap and then tile down to that?