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I've dragged the cable out hard (and this time use the cable tension bolt) but it's an aero frame so who fucking knows how convoluted the routing is. At max (trimmed) in or out it's still rubbing so I gave up. If the choice is rub the chain on the cage or clip the crank arm, I'm going with rubbing the cage.
It can get all the gears and doesn't hit the crank arm, it just sounds rough in highest gear and when cross-chaining in big/big so fuck it. Must've spent 3hrs trying different starting points. It "works" and he can take it back to the shop to get done properly. The bike is not even 3 months old so they can have a go at it.
Meanwhile my 7800 and the grrl's 105 or whatever the fuck it is, take about 2min to setup and work just fine.
Seriously, did someone from SRAM infiltrate Shimano?
hippy-
Seriously, did someone from SRAM infiltrate Shimano?
Aw, come on, it's not that bad. It's fiddly to set up, but it doesn't just dump the chain off the rings completely every time you have the temerity to try shifting the front mech.
Is it definitely rubbing on the cage? My new cross bike sounds a bit rough in big and small gears on the cassette, but it's definitely not the FD, because it doesn't have one. I think that the short chainstays (which you could well have on an aero frame) just mean that the chain is on the edge of its articulation when you're at either end of the cassette and so sounds a bit unhappy.
Brommers
That's what trim is for, on the new ones the H limit isn't really a limit, it's more of a how much extra movement do you need to clear the chain in the smallest cog with the amount of tension you've given it to shift up and leave a bit of trim up and down. Before you do all this shift up whilst holding the mech in place to make sure the cables are "stretched" and the outers are settled into place properly, otherwise the change in tension from settling in can mess with where you've set.