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• #2
only 3 scoble bricks
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• #3
With a nitto jag you could get at least another two
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• #4
How many cans of Stella do you need before you can ride it?
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• #5
Is the headtube junction held together with gaffer tape?
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• #6
so the lugs are made from steel and the tubes from aluminium, so it has to be bolted together, however there was quite a bit of play in the front one so i stiffened it up using fiber fix, its like a fabric with a setting resin that cures "harder than steel" but yeah its holding together...
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• #7
At least your fall will be lower once this thing eventually breaks.
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• #8
modern problems require modern solutions
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• #9
Use it on the way to the dentist and kill two birds with one stone! Careful now...
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• #10
that bike is brass m8
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• #11
lugs are made from steel and the tubes from aluminium, so it has to be bolted together
Raleigh Dyna-Tech used mixed materials as much as steel, aluminium, and titanium all on the same frame and they were bonded together at the lugs.
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• #12
The tape itself can be harder than steel but not holding the headtube though...
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• #13
The headtube is so short that you couldn't insert a nitto jag's quill deep enough to make any significant aerogainz. I'd recommend some deep drop bars on one of these:
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• #14
fork crown mounted stem is the only practical solution
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• #15
you could also consider stunt pegs off the front hub
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• #16
Or a Look ergostem for that ergo bonus.
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• #17
Stunt pegs on the front hub with the wheelset branded 'Navigator' amused me somewhat...
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• #18
What’s the back story with this frame then? I saw @BlackMath selling it in the classifieds a few weeks ago. Any ID on it?
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• #19
im not getting a very projecty feel from this
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• #20
Riser bars is cheating - needs deep drops
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• #21
yeah so i picked it up, and its basically been causing me greif ever since, ive been wrestling with it trying to get it ridable and picking up little bits and bobs for it here and there, its got alot of play in the joints at the front and the headset as the headtube isnt flat on the top and bottom, so still trying to figure that out.
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• #22
You need to take it to a bike shop and have the headtube reamed and faced but the play in the joints would be a MASSIVE red flag and I would not ride it
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• #23
i work in a bike shop and have done for a couple years haha, there isnt a huge amount of head tube to file down flat and i want to keep as much as i can. i have a few ideas.. as for the play in the joints at the front, the tubes are made of aluminium and the lugs from steel, its bolted together so mechanically its not going to fall apart but there is some play, i've tried to address this with JB weld and fiber fix (a sort of resin fiber composite thats ""harder than steel"") but yeah it is quite sketchy
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• #24
You need to use a proper structural adhesive like Scotch Weld 9323. JB Weld etc are convenient but not strong enough. Ideally you want to pop it apart, prep the ends of the tubes and jig it up to let it cure.
Can you not just tickle the ends of the head tube with a facing tool?
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• #25
How far out are the HT ends?
I challenge ANYONE to have a lower pro bike than my current project bike!
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