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When you're on the bike, your weight should cause the suspension fork to move into its travel slightly. This allows the fork to extend into small holes in the road/trail and better maintain grip
For a 100mm travel fork, your 'sag' should be around 20-25% of that travel. This will steepen your seat & head angle and lower your BB to what the geometry was intended to be
Another way to look at it is your sus fork is about 500mm in length, but if you wanted a rigid fork on there, you'd be looking for one with an a-c of 480mm
Lockouts can be useful for a sprint to the finish line, but for the rest of the time they're a bit meh
BareNecessities-
I used to like it for tarmacked sections of routes and climbing too. E.g. in the Surrey Hills after riding a trail, you often have to ride back up on tarmac.
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Lockouts can be useful for a sprint to the finish line, but for the rest of the time they're a bit meh
The obsession with lockout is irritating to explain to people. Adjust your sag, ride it for a while, adjust your fast/slow, ride it a while adjust it again. There's your sweet spot. Lock out is simply masking a non existent issue. Do you see any other suspended vehicle with a lockout?
@JB No offense, but you're talking out of your arse, confirmed by your limited ' MTB is a mystery' statement. Lockout is generally counter productive like super high tyre pressure is and was back in the day. FOX 32/34/36's and even 40's s on lockout still have some damping to them, they want to keep the forks moving at the same time as you are.
You want to keep the tyres as attached to the ground as possible. That section on road isn't worth having lockout for.
Keep you tyres on the ground.
@amey dude, you bought some SID's and haven't even set your sag. Ya'allah friend. get your shit together.
JB
Chak
To go up on climbs to keep up with people on road bikes lol
The second sentence needs a lot of ‘deconstruction’ .. whats sagged height?