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Thanks Bobbo,
I have a decent chop saw, multi tool, accurate layout for herringbone pattern. I will focus on buildup from wall, skirting line two depth border and brass inlay to establish sharp straight line on masking tape for each herringbone cut during dry fit. I will need that mitred 90’ start in the centre of the room then work back and forth toward bay window half of the first room.
thanks for the advice to dry fit first.. I plan to do everything very slowly before sticking down the final herringbone row to border and will practice with chop saw to gauge good fit. Working around the W tops/bottoms not sides of the room will be where I will be most tested. So I’m going to invest in a decent length straight edge for checking alignment. I have over ordered parquet so should have enough to practice with / destroy. Gonna need my knees to forgive me. This will be quite a challenge, but I hope a great learning experience.
In terms of moisture and expansion of blocks when is the best time of year to install?
almac68-
So I’m going to invest in a decent length straight edge for checking alignment
Best straight edge I've ever found is............. String (it's also the cheapest). If you drop it, it won't bend or get damaged it can be a near infinite length yet roll up and be put in a pocket you don't need special cases for it and if you join to lengths together it will not mess up and have a kink at the join.
In terms of moisture and expansion of blocks when is the best time of year to install?
Herringbone parquet is more forgiving than T&G solid wood flooring the glue prevents much of the expansion, although if you regularly soak it - mopping for example you will get lipping at the joints this is because although the bottom cannot swell or move the top will although this requires a lot of moisture regularly. So it shouldn't matter too much.
Bobbo
Have you laid this type of flooring before? It's a long and drawn out process, adding a border makes it even more so.
All circular saws come with a fence that can be turned upside down and used to establish an offset from a wall. You will also need a multi tool with appropriate plunge blade to finish off cuts.
To be honest though I would not use the wall to cut against for the border as unless the wall is dead straight (and I can pretty much guarantee it won't be) any curve will not only be reflected in your cut but amplified this will stand out like a sore thumb when up against the straight edge of the border. Instead I would invest in a good chop (mitre) saw and spend as much time as needed setting it up to cut accurately. Then spend a long time setting out the floor preferably with a Japanese ink line as it gives a much more defined line. Mark the border on the floor then dry fit each cut piece until you are 100% certain that the fit is perfect.
You could do the border cuts with a track saw but you will still need a multi tool as well as a variety of different lengths of track to be able to fit into all the alcoves.