Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

I recently ordered a dual sided road set. I realise that 1) they may never appear, 2) could be rubbish.

I've been on the fence for a while, and a couple of good reviews (DCR & Shane Miller), made me take a punt.

Certainly a risk/reward kinda situation. I personally see a £280 punt on what has a (small?) potential of being a usable dual sided PM a worthwhile risk. Not everyone will see it the same, a certainly not something anyone should do if they are going to get aggy about mega-delays (even if justified).

Also regarding the Q-factor, I thought this had mostly been fixed now they aren't little pod like things, and are actual pedals. It definitely does increase a the Q-factor a wee bit though, not zero like they claim.

Please excuse the spam, but if anyone's looking for a P2Max, I have just listed one.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/350792/#comment15403675

Having issues with my SRM dropping signal, and this evening now can't be found by either a Wahoo, Garmin, or Suunto USB. I had the battery replaced and recalibrated 8 weeks ago by Scientific Coaching after it did similar things earlier this year, they didn't report any other issues when doing so.
I've moved the magnet closer and further from the back, moved it towards the centre of the 'ring' on the back, and towards the edge. It just doesn't seem to wake up or be transmitting anything.

Anyone had this happen before? What was the solution?

What was the solution?

^^

How much duct tape do I need to fit it to SISL2 cranks?

How much duct tape do I need to fit it to SISL2 cranks?

I’ll chuck that in for free. You’re very welcome

Since the SISL2s have a 30mm spindle, and the 3d24s have a 24mm spindle, you'd need hard-to-source negative duct tape.

You need 30mm? I'll do you a deal on my very dependable Quarq:

What was the solution?

Gonna have to go back to Scientific Coaching I guess.

Don't suppose anyone wants a set of BNIB Vector 3S? Just got some replacements and in honesty I don't really need them.

What price are we talking here?

I echo that comment...

Depending on how people want them posted, how they're paid for etc, 390 euros so around 355 quid at today's exchange rate.

New to power meters, my bike at the min has a hologram si crankset and I have impulse bought a hologram si crankset with a power2max power meter on it. The power meter crankset is not the crank length I usually ride. Can I just take the spider rings off my crankset, take the power meter and chainrings off the other and swap them over?

Yes. You'll definitely need the correct spider removal tool, and it's tricky to do without a vice, a large socket and a torque wrench, but it's certainly possible. Just undo the spider lockring and switch the Spiderring for the P2M unit and chainrings. And then replace the lockrings, obviously.

Oh, and some threadlock wouldn't go amiss either.

Great, thanks for the reply. I have a vice, will pick up the tool and torque wrench etc.

Yes, assuming you don't want to use the Spiderings as I'm pretty sure you can't do that with P2M spider. You need the correct P2M lockring tool, a vice with soft grips, maybe some hot water to free up the existing loctite, a big torque wrench and two types of fresh Loctite - one is for the splines and one is for thread-locking the lockring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-_mdaKAaHQ

Loctite Compounds 638 (spline) and 243 (lockring threads)

Yes, I am happy just swapping the power meter over onto the shorter cranks with the rings that are on it and losing the spider rings. I am wondering if it is a bit of a faff to go from 175mm to 172.5 mm cranks.

Also, thanks for the info.

I am wondering if it is a bit of a faff to go from 175mm to 172.5 mm cranks

It's certainly more trouble than it's worth unless you are certain that 175 is too long for you.

I have only ever ridden 172.5 on a road bike, not sure what difference the longer cranks would make, if any.

Having switched between 172.5 and 165 cranks on different bikes for years without ever really noticing any discernible difference, I’d try the 175s first before making a decision to swap.

I’ll ride the 175s and see if I notice anything. Lots of contradictory info out there when you google it. Had a calculator based on inseam say i “needed” longer than 175s.

I;m riding 165, 172.5 and 175. There's no real difference unless you're a super sensitive special snowflake (like i am on the tt bike, stupid bent arteries)

Cool, I’ll just throw them on as is. I doubt the 2.5mm would make the difference that losing 10kg would! :)