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• #22877
And the mixing area by your back door is sprayed white all over with a multi-directional splatter blaster.
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• #22878
This is confusing me a bit - did you inherit a wardrobe built in to the old chimney breast, then block it back up again? What's in the cavity now?
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• #22879
There were two shockingly built built in wardrobes each side of the chimney breast. Made the decision to remove both and will put back in one small freestanding wardrobe. We live a fairly casual lifestyle with clothing that needs to be hung not featuring highly.
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• #22880
That makes sense. It looks great now.
Have you chosen a colour?
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• #22881
Just going for a nice Dulux Professional matt white I think.
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• #22882
It’s a bodge but you could try filling the holes up with epoxy wood filler and screwing into that. I’ll admit to doing this myself a few times.
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• #22884
Shock horror thats a tidy plasterer.
I've had to go around cleaning the floor up after them usually!
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• #22885
Bathroom rendering, talk to me.
The old tiles came away with barely a touch from a crowbar, bringing with it most of the render. As I understand, I shouldn't fill this with bonding plaster as it tends to fail in humid bathroom environments, right? And I should be using a sand cement render with some waterproof SBR stuff added into the mix, right?
Next question, is premixed bagged render a waste of money? I don't really need enough render to warrant the hiring of a mixer (I've got a paddle mixer anyway)
And finally, I've only done cement render once before. I just need to plumb it, feather edge it, then float/polish it, right? One wall is getting tanked then tiled, the other wall will be skimmed and partially tiled.
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• #22886
If the walls are relatively plumb I'd strip what's left on there and screw some wediboard or similar to the wall then tile straight onto it.
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• #22887
One wall is definitely bang on. The other I don't think is. Also, it's incredibly dense concrete underneath (I think), will I have trouble screwing on the boards? I did think about going down the aquapanel route
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• #22888
Seems as though I’m ahead of the curve...
The Offcut just posted this to their channel. And this is mine (installed in Jan).
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• #22889
Worth pointing out that a month ago I posted that pic to the Sonos subreddit for the install of my new Arc so there's a high chance he's taken 'inspiration' from my design.
He also painted his wall that colour for the video.
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• #22890
You can install it with adhesive.
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• #22891
Really like these, have you got the cables channeled through the wall? Also what sort of weight can those things take, it would have to take an amp.
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• #22892
No cables channelled for me (you can see them just above the Arc soundbar) but there's a load of plug sockets which are enclosed in there as well as our Virgin cable feed for fibre.
Fixed with french cleats, it's super strong. Got a Sky Q box, Xbox One X, fibre modem, 8 port router, raspberry pi and Nintendo switch in it. Got the Sonos Arc, Google Wifi & big ass vase on top. It's not going anywhere.
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• #22893
I also heard that you shouldn't just D&D it, it needs mechanical fixings too. Or is that bollocks?
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• #22894
Ah yes!
Did you fit the cleats yourself?
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• #22895
Yes; built the whole thing from scratch myself.
Cleats are attached to dot & dab plasterboard walls so no screwing into studs. I fixed mine with hollow wall anchors which were rated for 50Kg each.
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• #22896
Wow the whole cabinet?
If so do you have any plans?
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• #22897
Yeah - that's the point. Guy's straight-up copied me from a post on reddit :'), though he's refined the design with mitred corners.
No plans, made it up on the hoof ish. Build from a single sheet of 18mm birch ply. It's the width of the sheet so 2440mm and about 300mm high / deep. Made it to fit the existing equipment like Xbox / sky Q box.
Mine also has digital fans which measure the internal temp and suck hot air out on the side whilst drawing cool air in through the bottom, using positive pressure when the Xbox gets too warm.
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• #22898
Have you said anything?
Also content creator in plagiarism shock...
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• #22899
Not sure about wedi but some of the big suppliers (marmox springs to mind) have instructions for D&D you need to use a cement based adhesive NOT plasterboard adhesive. The marmox instructions for doing this are on page 22 of the attached PDF.
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• #22900
Commented on the channel.
No response yet...
Blimey, you found a good plasterer. Normally when they leave a job there is more plaster on the floor than the walls.