Home DIY

No chance whatsoever, i'd also heard of places selling their remaining stock for silly money.

I love my Wera screwdrivers... have they announced a price for this yet?

I’ve been looking at these as well, Epic Tools have them for £116.39
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293519089842

Ouch.

Looks useful! I recently bought myself a Knipex Pliers Wrench. Very neat indeed.

Knipex Pliers Wrench

Which one?

a price for this

Just under £60.

Should they be run this year,
I can probably wait until the Autumn trade shows for a 10% discount at the show.

Ah that’s not so bad, apart from the fact I don’t use Kraftform just their normal ones, so would need to switch over.

Have you seen powertoolmate.co.uk they often do decent bundle deals on Wera stuff

The top one on that list: grey atramentized 180mm It's dinkier than I expected but has ridiculous capacity (40mm). I think for things that need heavy torque it would be most comfortable in the 0-20mm range though.

I’ve been looking at these as well, Epic Tools have them for £116.39

Wut? You could just buy a drill for that.

Unless you plan on redecorating the room soon I'd just disconnect the circuit in that case.

atramentized

Is my new word for the day.
Atramentium is a new alloy to me.

Last boring floor update.
Second coat of Polyx. Overall about 80% happy, but have deffo learned lots going through the whole process.

Still need to put in some thresholds and make some edge beading from leftover boards, but the hallway is back to normal function (apart from mats/furniture). Need to double check the full hardening time of the Polyx before anything goes back on top.

Also used LSX (I think @Airhead recommended it) when reinstalling the bog and had no drips or leaks. Made a lot of sense to go the extra mile to make sure it sealed ok.

3 Attachments

Hopefully the slightly exaggerated pics show the issue.

The bottom piece of wood (the top from this view) of the frame is warped. Most warping is at one end (right hand side / closest to you in pic), such that when the LHS and center are clamped the RHS bows outwards. If the RHS and LHS are clamped the center is pushed out and round which prevents me shutting the window properly.

Assuming I want to repair this, rather than building a new window, or some how sourcing a new bottom piece what is the solution?

I’m about to start filing down where the two RHS corners meet on the touching sides to create room for them to properly touch so they can be fixed together.
...so from this:

to this:

I understand that this won't fix the issue of the twisting in the from the center to the RHS, but if material is removed then the window decreases in size slightly, right? Which means that the downside is just that it can't be as flush fitting which isn't an issue because; 1) it's a shed and 2) it can't close properly now anyway.

Not sure if it's relevant but they are tied together using Hoffmann Dovetail Keys.

I tend to use a hex holder for 2/3/4mm drill bits for guide holes,
then suitable Torx screws in the Wera magholder,
so,
I'm tempted by the Turbo Kraftform for precision/on view work.
I tend to buy from D&M Tools, Twickenham,
or,
even Toolstation who used to stock a wider range of Wera stuff.
I'll check out powertoolmate.
Thanks.

That one does include 18 bits but pretty dear

I've got some window putty, so will go that route. Application might be harder, but vs. finding the time to source, buy, cut paint, and fit new wood strips I think it's going to be the easy route.

Putty seals the window. Sprags or push pins hold the glass in place.

The glazing putty will probably need painting (most do)

Get some replacement beads 😉

Ordered some this : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FZ6TCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n1HdFb1QFMK39

So hopefully that plus putty will work.

Decided to try and damp and clamp the bottom piece. Tempted to try steaming it with a steam cleaner too.

I'm guessing that putty wouldn't flex enough in some shed walls. I have a lot of beading like this from offcuts on my trim saw, I guess that's one reason why carpenters would use beading.

Concrete worktop pinhole saga continues, going to bag rub with a mix of cement, plastering sand and SBR. Then try to grind again and see if the holes stay filled.

2 Attachments

Are they really pinhole sized? Are you going to seal the worktop? If so, could you just let whatever the seal is, fill the pinholes?

I just bought a pallet of it. It took the plasterer a month of trying.

I can see it being useful for machine screws but at that gear ratio it’s not going to be much fun driving into wood. Like going up Swain’s Lane on 48/12.

OK, so re skirting boards, the Ogee profile curved the wrong way.
Prized a bit off and took it to Champions Timber in Bromley. Seemingly easy to get some of the same type machined up. About £100 for the tooling and another £100 for 10m. Not cheap but not insanely expensive and mismatching boards would fuck me off.
Didn't seem phased at all. Arrives on Monday so will report back on quality / match etc.

Those guys are great. Was ace to live less than 1/2 a km from that place for three years.