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• #22577
I can only find one, I think the other is obscured by the door frame.
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• #22578
oooh, I built one of those. Used one inch dowel, and was a metre wide, bit of flex but enough for a 10kg kid.
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• #22579
👍
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• #22580
Any top tips / wouldn't do again?
I'm looking to do something simple, rather than elegant, with some of the spare c24 Stevo gave me.
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• #22581
Hmm, I made a 90 degree angle and it takes up a bit too much room. Stick with the more acute version.
To get it to fold properly you need a bit of spare room at the axle. If you make it more square than I did or just keep an eye out for tolerances you'll be fine.
Recessing the holes for the dowel ends with a forstner was time consuming, the hole is deeper than the forstner so you just have to guess when you're deep enough, and not going to go through the other side.
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• #22582
Cheers. That's good to know.
How tall is yours?
Just inspecting the spare bits of wood and weighing up how tall to make it.
Given the available wood stock it's going to be beefy and confined to the garden.
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• #22583
About 1m , just under my hip, 86cm. The rungs are 155mm centre. M10 bolts for hinges/stops
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• #22584
.
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• #22585
Awesome! Thanks.
More 'burban bushcraft than DIY....
...fixing a bubble wand after a toddler has had a tantrum.
1 Attachment
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• #22586
Skills
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• #22587
I've found the tooth pitch and design is more important than the manufacturer. I wouldn't cut melamine with the same blade as 18mm Mdf and even ply benefits from a slightly lower pitch than mdf. If you are ripping wood it tends to want a really low pitch.
Its a pain to have to change between them but it's cleared up any issues I had with the saw burning, bogging down or chipping edges.
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• #22588
If I ever run across these problems on site and I can't just run away I cut a fairly large hole in the wall and put a long piece of pine in. The technique is proprietary! It mostly involves swearing and sweat.
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• #22589
I like CMT. Haven't had any issues with DeWalt (Extreme?) either.
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• #22590
Yup, I’ve got a selection of blades but only really change for cutting really thick boards / 45 degrees or ripping solid wood, which is to rare, mostly use the table saw for that.
A 48t general blade works well on pretty much everything, no chipping on decent quality melamine and little face breakout cross-cutting birch ply. Just cuts a bit slow on birch and can burn if not sharp. Any lower tooth count tends to leave lines on the cut edge. I guess it’s just a trade off and there’s no magic bullet.
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• #22591
Thanks, I’ll check out CMT. Love Dwalt Extreme II cobalt bits for metal.
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• #22592
I used to work with an old guy who swore by high pitch, negative rake blades for clean cuts on birch ply.
Found this: https://www.keybladesandfixings.com/products/copy-of-160mm-x-20mm-x-2-2mm-48-tooth-triple-chip-track-saw-blade-solid-surface-mfc-2206
Quite an expensive punt to take though.Used to have a big one on the workshop tablesaw (not sure of the exact brand though).
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• #22593
Tying the bit of wood to some string helps pull it tight when putting your first screw back in and helps you avoid dropping the wood into the cavity. Been there many many times!
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• #22594
Maybe I’ll give it a go. Actually have a high tooth count negative rake blade for cutting metal. I can’t imagine it’ll speed up my cuts though...
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• #22595
Yeah, deffo won’t make for the quickest cuts. And no doubt will get hot/burny as a result.
Random question, do you find your saw quite stiff on the rails? Even with the tensioners on their lowest setting, it doesn’t move along the rail as well as other track saws.
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• #22596
Anyone used limewash paint indoor before? We're using Bauwerk in one of our rooms and wondered if anyone had any tips
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• #22597
I've only ever used my own saw so nothing to compare to, but it doesn't seem stiff to me. Running on Bosch rails, but they'll be coming out the same extrusion / factory as the Mafell ones.
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• #22598
I like to use the very thin kevlar stuff. Like I said, all proprietary :)
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• #22599
Funny you ask. Only a couple of days ago my wife sent me a link to a website that sells those things. They were nice, but selling for hundreds of dollars. I told her to pick one and I'd build it, but she never did. Probably fully aware of the fact that I wouldn't actually get around to it until our kids had kids.
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• #22600
Ours is clearly missing climbing things any my OH asked about getting a ladder for them and remembered seeing someone on here (probably Backstop) make one.
I am fully aware that it may not get done for a while, but having the big heavy bits of wood already and those dowels that dbr linked being postable means it just might as it's then just a forstner bit to buy.
Plus there is an area in the back of our garden that I'll turn into a den over winter/next spring and want to make it so it could be repurposed there if it's not used. Currently having to manage expectations there though, as I was just going to chuck up a couple of posts with a bamboo woven roof and a basha. OH's expectations are for some magical mini house.
So is there only one stud or have the others just not been located yet?
If you can only find the one, maybe you could try and make the floor your anchor - use a sheet of ply that rests on the floor, screw it to that singular stud and go fastener crazy.