You are reading a single comment by @Sheppz and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
-
It's not going to be that easy to get back to that kind of brown finish if it's not completely opaque.
Usually I prime the wood then apply mastic that can be overpainted i.e. waterbased sealant. Then undercoat and 2 top coats. In the last few years I have been using Zinsser All Coat which can be tinted and doesn't need 3 coats, 2 will do. It's also very easy to paint with and very durable so far. Personally I would paint it all gloss white because that finish lasts a couple of years longer.
If you use car body style 2 part filler don't skip the wood hardener.
You might benefit from a carbide scraper, probably do a better job than a wire brush.
It's a bitch working off ladders, depending on the value of your time even a tower is worthwhile.
Airhead
@Sheppz
1960s "crosswall" type house - the facades (where not glass) are over clad in plastic but some original timber work remains - vertical mullions, sills etc. I need to refinish it as its gone beyond in some places and is leaking around window junctions. Have to do it off a ladder as too skint for scaffold. Current plan is to wire brush / rub back all loose bits, fill any holes and big dings with 2 part filler and then over coat the lot. In some cases it will be back to bear wood, others where the finish is still reasonable i'll be just adding a layer of protection. Two questions:
1: what product to use - some kind of sadolin ? - looking for path of least resistance so I guess sticking to the delicious 60s brown.
2: Mastic / silicone gaps between aluminum window frames before or after paint ?
1 Attachment