Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

On an entirely unrelated note, if anyone has any tips for removing pink mineral oil from a white living room ceiling, I'm all ears.

See if any of the clerks know their way around a paint roller?

Always burp the system via the lever first before trying to flush the system via the caliper...

Did that. Nice spongy lever. Probably because it's a new hose, so full of air.

Not as well as I do, I suspect. When you've spent 6 12-hour days straight painting 8'x4' boards the same colour of slightly not white, you know how to handle a paint roller.

Happily, doing my finest Zebedee impression with a big bunch of blue paper in one hand seems to have done the trick. Compared to the kitchen ceiling, it's looking mint.

Top tip #2. When doing the reverse bleed process on Shimano road hydraulic levers (letting the mineral oil flow from the funnel on top of the levers into a bag connected to the caliper) always make sure that the ziplock bag you're using to collect the fluid draining from the caliper doesn't have a great big hole in it.

Failure to do so may leave the laminate flooring in your living room with a coefficient of friction which would put an Olympic-spec ice rink to shame.

What’s the forum approved method of cleaning contaminated rotors and pads?
Tried hot water + washing up liquid + 30 mins soak + good scrubbing which helped but wasn’t enough.
Ta

Isopropyl alcohol and fire, then give the pads a light sand and wash with warm water. If that doesnt work bin the pads

Fire fire fire fiiiire

Top tip #3...

...make sure the bag is in the correct callipers otherwise you spend ages trying to get the oil down the wrong callipers.

This, then get new rotors, if you let the old ones within about a metre of your new pads, replace them too.

Im having weird issues with a thru axle dt350 x mavic front wheel.

Firstly the spokes hit the caliper. I've tried it with a flat mount spyre and a post mount bb7 (with adaptor). Both hit some part of the caliper even when the caliper is pushed all the way out. Its a 160mm rotor, i haven't tried with a 140 but i assume itll be the same or worse with it closer to the hub

The location of the disc mount (centrelock) on the hub seems off as well, because when i put a 160 mm rotor in there, it hits the fork blade, even tho the fork works with 160mm.

I tried a different thru axle wheel, with a 6 bolt 160mm rotor and the same flat mount spyre and it works fine, spokes dont hit and rotor clears.

Anyone have any idea what the deal might be? I feel like im just being an idiot and doing something super obvious wrong, but i cant figure out what!

Edit:i figured it out, the endcaps where the wrong way round. However it seems that they were also the wrong way around when the wheel was built so the dish is out now. :/

Whats the go to mineral oil bleed kit that has screw on hoses rather than push fit?

https://epicbleedsolutions.com/

New to disc brakes, I will have r7000 flat mount calipers.
About discs, Are r7000 related discs improving anything compare to low budget discs? Will r8000 related discs be even better or the 105 caliper is not made for them...? What about using mountain bike discs? Or sram discs?
Is it all marketing or is it changing anything ?!
Thanks!

Stick to shimano, there's not a massive difference between the calipers, especially in how they feel or function, which is good for all of them, the cheaper ones don't have ceramic pistons.

Thx!
My question was not really clear, I already have the 105 calipers, I’m only wondering about the discs I should get !

Rotors? I like shimano icetech ones, so XT or ultegra but that's for my MTB where they might get hotter if I ever rode it. People like SRAM centerline, or get some hope floaty bling.

Rotors that’s the name!

https://flic.kr/p/2iYb9qd

Slx brakes with grx levers. Has anyone tried something like that?

Yup, works fine.

If anyone has a ridiculous amount of play in their sram hrd levers, you need to replace/clean out the master cylinder.

I've got about 2-3cm of fore aft play at the Lever tip, and from all my researching it looks like the master cylinder needs replacing. There are a few YouTube videos online of how to do it and why it happens.

EDIT:
Replaces/re-greased/rebuilt master cylinder with silicon grease, also cleaned out all the gunk on the push rod and rebled the system.

On initial testing, brakes feel as good as they've ever done (I bought them second hand), so only time will tell whether they stay that way.

Followed this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqEHA2dRgqs&t=1170s

Has anyone got a Front Post 140 to Post 160 adapter they could sell me?

AFAIK you can use a regular front post 160 to 180 adaptor and it should fit.

This is the same adaptor for rear 140 to 160

I feel your pain fella

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14879435/

Was a fiddly job for sure

Was ordering some stuff from Wiggle and thought I'd check for heavily discounted spared and parts that might come in handy.

Got two sets of these: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/clarks-replacement-pads-shimano-xtr-1

On arrival I realised my £3 pads weren't standalone pads, they're refills for these £7 items: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/clarks-finned-disc-pads-shimano-xtr

My current plan is to find some worn-out Shimano J-series finned pads I've got lying around and see if the total thickness of these refills plus Shimano's finned parts add up to a somewhere close to the thickness of a fresh Shimano G-series finless pad.