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• #302
Yeah, sorry to disappoint... it's the hole in the steerer that I couldn't bring myself to do... was considering going through head-badge screw hole and around steerer into downtube but then though that is too much faff and if the cable fowls the steerer whilst riding that wouldn't be fun.
With this setup I've only had to drill a hole in the seatpost cradle, so frame and forks remain as the good folk of Moots intended... I like the idea of having the battery in the saddle roll so I can take it off and charge it without having to 'plug the bike in' which is sometimes annoying with the Parlee...
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• #303
Not sure if the video will work but some small progress...
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• #304
I’ve got a working cable for the rear but have attempted to solder the front mech wire 4 times and it’s not moving... I’ve used a legit cable and tested the front mech is working and battery charged... I chatted to my neighbour as he’s an electrician and restores speakers and he’s said he’s certain I’m being a muppet and he’ll sort it one evening this week so fingers crossed I’ll be finishing this (with temporary wheels) this weekend! 🎉
Need to order some spokes to get the oxic wheels built up - I’ve just remember I’ve got a pair of Vittoria corsa speed in the garage in 23mm - my question is should I bother trying tubeless on the new wheels or just stick to what I know and keep with tubes?
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• #305
I’ve got a working cable for the rear but have attempted to solder the front mech wire 4 times and it’s not moving... I’ve used a legit cable and tested the front mech is working and battery charged...
Have you checked the firmware is up to date across the components? I've had situations before where everything is plugged in and the battery is charged but it won't work until the firmware is brought up to date using the etube software.
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• #306
Not sure, never had to plug any of my stuff into a computer - when I use a legit front mech cable with the rest as I’ve set it up it all works, when I plug in the front mech cable I’ve soldered then nothing happens... pretty sure it’s because I’m shit at it and was lucky the first two times on the other cable... cheers for the info though 👍🏻👍🏻
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• #307
What pads you got for these rims? I was advised by the DT guy at Madison to Make sure I always used the correct Swiss Stop pads for these rims. Mine came with some. Blue I think. Can check if needed.
Apparently other pads will eat through the Oxic coating quicker. Highly likely this is just DT making shit up to get you to buy their pads tho, so make of it what you will. The DT pads that came with my wheels do work really well with these rims FWIW.
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• #308
I drilled a hole in the head tube of my Talbot for cleaner Di2 wire entry, as the one on the NDS of the down tube always annoyed me.... has been totally fine. Asked Matt before hand and he said it would be fine as head tubes are thick walled.
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• #309
Swisstop BXP, I think that is what is the recommended pad - luckily I had a new set in the garage...
Re: drilling, yeah, maybe I would if it was steel but give titanium and cracks and stuff and I'm guessing I'll eventually get etap when it's old news and can be had for cheap...
Is that an Oxic wheel in the picture? how are you getting on with them? would you bother setting them up tubeless? -
• #310
been thinking about this more... so when the cable enters the headtube it curves slightly around the steerer into the top of the downtube... I assume that the oversize headtube has a little more space than I do, and I imagined a scenario where I manage to snag the di2 cable in the steerer meaning it jams/unjams and leaves me laying in a heap, or worse...
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• #311
yeah, i got Oxic 21 wheelset for the Talbot, as the direct mount rear DA900 caliper doesnt clear a rim much wider than 22 external, so went for these as they are fairly narrow. I really like them so far.
I will never go tubeless on a road bike, beacuse its dumb.
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• #312
I dont really know how you would manage to snag the Di2 cable on the fork.... there is nothing in there for it to snag on.
I think you're over thinking it.
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• #313
ha, probably... I'd overthought that if there was enough slack on the di2 cable it could snag on itself and jam the steerer...
And yeah, doubt I'll bother with tubeless either, just noted that I've tubeless ready rims and tyres... meh, it seems like pointless faff...
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• #314
Wait a second... is that your rear brake cable entering the down tube on the drive side?
I think I’d have had the di2 cable and rear brake cable going into NDS downtube, would be neater no? -
• #315
Tubeless is great IMO. Even on road. I've not had to fix a puncture in three years. Or use an inner tube. To me it seems very antiquated now. I saw a guy fixing a puncture the other day at the top of a wet, foggy climb and I just did not miss that whatsoever.
Once the initial set up is done, it's relatively pain free. Has been for me anyway. With that said, there's nothing wrong with a nice latex tube setup.
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• #316
Hmm, never tried latex tubes... might do that first...
touching wood I’ve only had one puncture in the last three years as well... guess I’m just lucky!Edit: probably says more about the amount of riding I’ve done in the last three years :(
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• #317
Lol! But also :-(
Yeah, I didn't puncture very often before tubeless but running 30c it made sense. I'm now on 25 but tubeless seemed like the right way to go. I'd happily run some really nice high thread count supple clinchers with latex tubes and in fact, I'm still considering it for my Seven. But I remember the feeling of getting a puncture and just being so annoyed. I don't miss that feeling at all. There's lots of crap roads up in the mountains in Los Angeles, too, where rockfalls happen and whatnot. That's where I think tubeless can really come into it's own...
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• #318
well the roads of Kent are shite and I'll be rocking mudguards from day one so the stories of gunk leaking and getting everywhere wont be such an issue... out of habit I'd always carry a tube anyway and I understand that a last resort with tubeless is to put a tube in... I guess the pain of a puncture knowing that your tyre is also full of slop is an even shitter feeling that just switching out a tube anyway... we'll see, need the wheels built first!
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• #319
Yeah, that’s the cable for rear brake. It originally had one of the interchangeable cable ports on the other side of the DT. It’s one of the oval shaped jobbies that has inserts you can change over for different cables/wires. You can’t oust these next to the brake cable hole, as they wouldn’t really fit, so it had to go on the NDS. I always found the di2 cable having to go in the other side of the DT pretty ugly, so blanked off the port on the DT and drilled the HT before I repainted it a while back. I would have drilled hole next to the brake cable hole, but that would have fucked the frame as the HSS tubing is so thin. (bike is at work so and don’t have pic that shows the old port to hand)
I got Matt to put the di2 hole next to the brake cable port like you say on the second frame he made me as this is the neatest way to do it without the hassle of trying to do it fully internally.
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• #320
Hot Spot !
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• #321
Yeah, I always carry a tube regardless. Wouldn't dare leave home without one!
Yeah, but the puncture seals itself so it doesn't matter :-) Even holes that don't seal are normally just slow punctures. You'll get home!
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• #323
Getting more practical - dynamo light and guards fitted but need a fettle - di2 now fully installed and working
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• #324
Strong!
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• #325
this looks so good
I was hoping for more drill action.
Hole behind the bars, junction in the stem, holes in the steerer