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• #902
Hey, is there anything in stock to fit a caad 12?
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• #903
is there anything in stock to fit a caad 12?
Yes, check your dimensions, should be 47×2 but occasionally 47×3. I have both in both colours
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• #904
If there’s not, I have a cannondale one kicking about in a box, brand new, unfitted.
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• #905
Hi there, sorry if im repeating the question, but i cant find the answer.
would you mind to let me know which one suit cinelli mash cyanotype?
i saw someone get one for mash bolt 2.0 in previous page so im guessing it will fit cyanotype perfectly.
also interested if you got the one for mash histo 1.0many thanks
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• #906
sorry if im repeating the question, but i cant find the answer
Read the first post and take measurements according to the drawing.
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• #907
My Genesis Volare 953 seems to need a 51x2 mm... So I guess that means a 48mm with a step at the top? Cheers!
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• #908
I'm guessing that's a ZS44 headset. You can use a 48mm cover, but it makes very little difference to the stack height compared with a standard FSA low top cover, usually no more than 3mm.
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• #909
Yeah, probably I'll stick with that then. Thanks anyway!
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• #910
Right, potential pandemic brain here...
Head tube width is 45mm, depth from the top of the compression cap to the top of the head tube is 4mm, so I take it I need a 45mm cap in 4mm depth?
Though the headset is a tiny bit wider than the head tube, so maybe 44mm?
Cane creek is 42 26.8 headset, pictures below - I don't know if I've measured correct.
1 Attachment
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• #911
Head tube width is 45mm, depth from the top of the compression cap to the top of the head tube is 4mm, so I take it I need a 45mm cap in 4mm depth?
Yes
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• #912
Also, there will be a wait as I've run out of 45×4 and the fresh batch hasn't even been turned yet.
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• #913
Cool, no worries. Is it best to wait for them to be turned before paying, or should I pay now?
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• #914
I'll get back to you when I have them in my hand. Anodising took a month last time too as I was queued behind ventilator parts.
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• #915
Curiosity just struck me about how these would be made on a lathe... Start with a rod, cut the interior and centrebore into the end, then the exterior shape, ending by breaking through to the bore, leaving a flat end for the next part?
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• #916
Yes, that has been discussed before and that is more or less the order of operations. They actually start with tube stock for the last few batches, and the 1" stock ID gets roughed out with an insert drill first. You can actually get an insert drill that's exactly the finished size, but I don't know whether the shop has one or just uses something close and finishes the bore to size in the face grooving op, which would be perfectly feasible without switching to a boring bar since it's only 1mm deep.
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• #917
Watching lots of AvE, This Old Tony, Stefan Gotteswinter etc recently has filled my brain with many lathey thoughts.
Been trying to work out the viability of a completely DIY lathe based on the plenty kW IPM motor from a Denso ES27 aircon compressor vs just buying a chinesium 7x12 lathe and learning how to finish the ways properly.
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• #918
If you've got the tooling to make a lathe from scratch, then you already have a lathe. Which makes you wonder how they made the first lathe. But there you go.
Everyone should have a lathe though. I've got a Chester DB10G. Cheap and cheerful, but does the job.
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• #919
I'm after a 46x4 and a 45x4 if you have these?
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• #920
The 45x4 is awaiting pick up from the machine shop and anodising, so it will be at least a couple of weeks.
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• #921
I would like a black one to suit a cervelo s3 if you have one
Edit. I’ll measure it in the morning -
• #922
Should be 45×2 unless it's 45×3, I have at least one of each in stock.
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• #923
Messaged you
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• #924
If you have a 45x2 I'll have one please.
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• #925
Worth asking @Explosifpete2 if he has already posted the 45x2 back, he might want to sell it to you. Otherwise you'll have to wait for whichever is faster out of his return or the anodiser.
@paradigmz see here in case one provided is too high