90s Daccordi: Complete rebuild with Chorus carbon (10s)

I've nearly decided on wheels but could use an aesthetics sense check from the hive mind. I came to a similar conclusion as @gertrudestein that there's no point picking discontinued rims when modern ones are available. This is a modern/vintage project after all.

I'm going to build Archetypes onto decent Taiwanese hubs, 20h/24h. But what colours to pick?

I'm currently leaning towards dark grey Archetype rims with black spokes, black DCR hubs. This will look similar to this wheelset:

Choices, choices....

Archetypes in dark-grey / black / polished silver:

DCR hubs in any colour:

Spokes in black or silver:

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Some pictures to get your MGOOF-grouch cogs whirring:

My frame (for new page):

I've bought a Chorus 10sp groupset which looks bit like this. But I'm not a fan of these black ano wheels with silver brake tracks, as they are so ubiquitous.

Dark grey ano rims would look like this (but these are more shallow than Archetypes):

Shiny rims also an option (pic from MGOOF thread):

Black archetypes... though my brake tracks would soon be silver/alu colour, so I'm thinking "nah":

Red hubs could match my decals but I'm thinking "nah":

Still slightly tempted to saw "screw it" and just buy Chinese carbon wheels. But apparently they've poor braking in wet, and no/little weight saving... but black brake track!! <3

I guess the thing to remember with anodised rims is that the brake track can just wear away if you brake regularly while riding in the wet for a few hours - have a look at polished kinlin rims as well? I've had good enough experience with cd open-pros and they come up on ebay laced to hope hubs semi regularly :)

Yes the brake track would wear into any alu rim choice. That's why I'm leaning away from black alu rims. I thought grey ano would be less of a contrast, could look nice with gumwall tyres!

Exalith rims would keep their ano for much longer (now tricky to find them). The only real solution for eternally black rims is carbon, but it's £££££ for anything that will brake well in the wet.

FYI I've got grey archetypes on silver hope hubs - very nice wheels but the ano wore off in the first ride in the rain. I'd buy them again but go for the silver version.

I've also just purchased a pair of DT swiss Oxic 21mm which have a ceramic type coating on the brake track so these will stay dark grey for the life of the rim (allegedly) - if you want to buy these as rims alone look up Boyd Altemont CSS, or call SJS/SPA and see if they still have any Ryde CSS in stock...

@broken_777 offered to build me a pair of silver bitex on silver polished Kinlin in a low spoke count for very reasonable money, maybe give him a shout?

IMHO black spokes are meh, silver and silver nipples all day every day... hubs black or silver, rims silver, or ceramic or carbon.

Thanks for the very useful insights mattyc.

The DT swiss Oxic 21mm does throw a very interesting spanner in my works (not a euph). Polished silver is also a good option.

Now I'm thinking I have two options:
A) Polished silver Archetypes onto silver DCR hubs (these are Bitex hubs actually). I have a quote of £278 for the parts.
B) DT swiss Oxic 21mm or other CSS rim onto black DCR/Bitex hubs. The question is then around price/sourcing of these rims.

I’ve been in the same predicament - I bought the oxic from a guy in German eBay for about £35 a rim, very lighly used - he has more and is open to negotiation, i then low-balled a seller of some PPINA branded bitex for £40 in black, ACI DB spokes can be had for £11 for both wheels and building cost is around £30 a wheel so... sub £200 with tape and postage to builder each way 👍🏻👍🏻

I found the German seller with the DT Swiss Oxic rims. Looks like the brake tracks still wear to silver, as in his eBay photos:

This now cements my belief that any anodising will always go to silver.

I feel my options then become:
A) Shiny alu Archetypes
B) Carbon wheels

I think I would be very happy with either. Carbon wins aesthetically but shiny Archetypes would be fun to build, easier to repair/replace and better to brake on.

That’s not an oxic rim...

Ah, so it's incorrectly titled in the auction?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DT-Swiss-PR-1400-Dicut-Oxic-Felge-24-loch-21-mm/174099922374

I’d ask the seller to confirm, but whatever it is it looks like it’s had a tough time and I’d not bother rebuilding that rim... I think he has some kind of deal with DT where he gets their warranty returns to break for parts hence so many lightly used rims/components - the ones I bought he’d not got for sale, ask him for a good pair 👍🏻

By tough time I mean that the coating might have come off the rim due to heavy use and abuse, like a load of sharp sand has been caught in the pads while braking, or previous owner switched wheels around and didn’t clean up the pads/wore the pads out and let the brake shoes ferk the rim up...

Archetypes are a sound choice, though the decals are hard to remove and I'm not convinced the high polish finish suits anything but box section rims*. DCR Flirt seems like another good choice. Slightly lighter, cheaper, and available in OC (off center, as in asymmetric) which is a nice thing to have with a campagnolo body hub. Here's the range of finishes.

*Shamals aside

Kinlin ADHN in silver are another option

Probably not in the drilling OP is seeking.

I'm going to buy a chinese Carbon 50mm set for my master neo retro. They are not going to explode, look great for the value and I don't be riding the bike in wet conditions. What else can be wrong with them in the end?

Totally fair enough for your needs. But I'll be riding in the wet. This is my only road bike, and I'm only MGOOF-ing it because I wore through my chainrings/cassette/chain, thought that this was a good excuse to change the whole groupset and recognised that I needed to change wheels too.

Mate that is a great find... I really like the DCR Flirt in silver. And as I'm talking to them already it seems like a good move. Plus the DCR Flirt is 45g lighter than the Archetype rim. Though 20h is not available in silver. I think I'll probably go 24h/24h, radial front and 2-cross rear.

Cheers, sounds good! I'm done detailing a pearl white frame, clay bar has done a great job of removing imbed grime from scratches, in my limited experience more effective and not as harsh as cutting compound. I still followed up with compound to remove some orange peel and finished with a synthethic sealant (meguiar's tech wax 2.0), as it was recommended for white paint over conventional carnauba wax. The sealant really made the lacquer pop, easier to clean-up as well, really pleased with the outcome.

As for rims, like you said, any alu brake surface will wear eventually, machined brake tracks have a much more consistent look to it over worn in anodized rims. I went for shot peened/black anodized/machined DT Swiss 411 for my Chorus 10sp hubs/groupset. This was meant for the white cannondale I've mentioned ^, I'll post a pic if If you're interested.

I've just gone through all of the above quandaries for my new road bike wheels and ended up going for the silver Flirts in 20/24 but in the 30 profile. I originally wanted the shallower 23's but it's worth noting that the brake track is very shallow and my wheel builder wasn't keen to do a 24 hole rear due to potential flex. I've not had all silver wheels before and I'm yet to ride on them but in terms of looks I'm very happy with my choice.

EDIT: 23 not 21.5...

A wide ranging hunt has, so far, yielded:

Wheel parts, soon to arrive, and they should look something like this when built:

I've found a set of gumwall GP4000s in 23mm from this fair parish, thanks to @citizen-snips:

I've sourced a bargainous black Romin saddle and silver seatpost from @Thrasher, who was kind enough to cycle an hour or so to my place twice.

Pedals from @marky_marksafc, Wellgo MG-8 at a nice ~240g:

Gold KMC chain came with the Chorus groupset and it's not too worn... so why not!

Black Fizik microtex tape with gel pads (my delicate hands!):

Oh and I grabbed some touch-up paint from Condor, a very close match to my frame:

Also some T-Cut, some Zymol wax, and also an inexpensive "Pure Definition" clay bar.
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Still to chase down:

I've snapped my current bars and need to replace them. Been tempted to go with the economical Bontrager SSR VRC and just sand off the visible black ano. Perhaps I just haven't polished anything in a while....

Though what I'd really like is a set of silver Nitto M186 or M106, though honestly I resent myself for wanting an expensive set of bars when the Bontragers would do just fine.

I'll also need a silver 26.0mm stem, as my 26.4mm Cinelli XA stem will not fit modern compact bars. Ideally something tasty like Dura Ace / 600 AX, or a more recent Cinelli, or a Nitto of course.
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I'm not sure if it'll go (might look ace, actually) but I have a 3TTT Status?

3TTT Status

Very interesting suggestion! What length is it? I'm going to need a 120mm or 130mm... I should definitely confirm that (!).

Is it the gunmetal finish like this?

Nitto all the way for MGOOF.

Yep, that's the finish. It's 115 from memory and a I have at least one of the often lost/broken top caps. Will have a look later

I would agree, but Bontrager bars are £10 second hand whilst Nitto are £50 (only available new, boo).

I'll get the sandpaper out make the Bontragers silver (where they show), and use that extra £40 to brew 50 pints of tasty beer. Whilst I may be a big nerdy bike purist, it appears I'm a slightly bigger piss-head.