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  • Could anyone confirm which length BB I should be using with my White Ind. ENO chainset (single ring), in a 68mm shell and a 10spd cassette?

    WI seemed to have removed the information I have previous bookmarked. All I can find is:

    "Follow these instructions to install both ENO and VBC crank arms and chain rings. When the ENO crank is installed on a 113x68mm bottom bracket, the Q factor is 160mm"

    Which is from here, I assume 113mm is correct but just wanted to check.

  • I've completely chewed up the screwdriver slot on my 105 disc caliper's pad axle while trying to get it out. Can't believe how soft the metal is. At least it shouldn't be too difficult to drill it out.

    Looking at Shimano tech docs it's BR-7070 caliper, and I need either a Y8J798060 Pad Axle & Snap Retainer set, which I can get from SJS, or a Y8J710000 Pad Axle, but is there any alternative that isn't so fragile? Maybe with an Allen bolt head?


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  • is there any alternative that isn't so fragile? Maybe with an Allen bolt head?

    My ancient XT brakes have an Allen head in that position. If you measure yours I'll measure mine, it might fit. SJSC have them, although the shipping is very expensive and may take more than 24 hours 🙂

  • Have you tried grabbing it with mole grips?

    You could use the split pin that comes with replacement pads.

  • Torx would be better if available.

  • The MTB Allen head ones work fine, those ones are shit and I always put a little anti seize on the threads when I see them, if it comes down to it you can undo the caliper to split it in half to get a decent grip on the axle, the back end will just twist off. Before you get to that try using a flathead screwdriver bit and some molegrips between the bit and the other end of the axle to really hold it all together then a small adjustable on the bit to loosen it, it's fiddly and helps if you have at least 3 hands but I find it usually works. Someone else I know says they've have success getting the end of a drill chuck on it and undrilling it out but I've not tried that one.

  • Is there a/Where's the thread on here which talks about servicing hubs and replacing loose ballbearings etc?

  • I have only seen one about swapping sealed bearings.

    Try here, ninth link down.

  • Cheers but I think it's probably more convenient for me to just consider it a lesson, will buy the known-to-fit replacement and not do them up tight next time, and use anti-seize. The spring clip provides a safeguard anyway.

    @Emyr, @snottyotter I don't have mole grips, maybe a good reason to buy some. The 105 pads I have don't come with a split pin.

  • Has the what the hell is the white shit on the roads that appears when it rains been answered yet?
    I feel like it must have- just can't find the answer.

    One of my bikes looks like it has hyperhydrosis.

  • not do them up tight next time, and use anti-seize. The spring clip provides a safeguard anyway.

    Definitely this, they don't need to be more than finger tight because the safety clip is there to stop them if they even think about backing out on their own. Shimano seem to favour a belt-and-braces approach to disc brakes, the pad retaining pin doesn't really need to be threaded at all.

  • If you measure yours I'll measure mine

    mkay

  • If I go from a triple chainset to a 1x on my XC bike will it make the Q closer to that of my road bike?

  • Depends. There's certainly the opportunity to reduce Q a bit, but not as much as you'd think, and not everybody exploits it. For example, the SRAM X0 3×10 actually has lower Q (by 0.5mm) than the X01 1×11

  • Thanks Tester. Not definite and probably not significant if at all then. Feel a bit bow-legged on the XC bike. Couldn’t stop a pig in an alley.

  • probably not significant if at all

    If they fit your frame, the XX1 narrow-Q version is 156, which is halfway between the ~145 or road cranks and ~168 of most ordinary MTB cranks. You'd have to find the current position pretty annoying to want to spend £300 on new cranks.

  • Crikey. Yeah, nah. This relates to the question the other day about resurrecting my M952 XTR chainset which has narrower Q.

  • Has anyone bought anything from Wish? I know it's cheap as it comes from China but I bought a few items on April 30th that were shipped on 5 May.
    Some items arrived in the UK on 8 May, the other on 28 May. What the heck have they been doing in the UK since then?!
    Tracking says delivery expected between 14 May and 25 June.

  • With everyone else furloughed I have suddenly become the IT guy around here.
    The web hotell wants to continue their contract for ca 150 GBP per month. That's a bit steep no?
    Not a very complicated web page.

    EDIT: I guess the cost is both webhotel and the CMS. Still looks pricey though.

  • Fridge is borked after 14 months of ownership and has been quoted £350 to repair by an independant. Currys have offered me £200 compensation, which is a number that gets fired out of their machine with no resoning to the call handler at the other end. This is -£219 depreciation over 14 months. Is there any way I can dispute this valuation?

  • My missus bought some cheap stationery bits from there, she cancelled and was refunded, but I think they did all turn up eventually.

  • Customs, and probably very low priority in the sorting process as they do not make a lot of money by delivering those parcels.

  • A couple of days ago Royal Mail delivered a parcel (from the UK) that we'd ordered a month ago and another one that I'd ordered three weeks ago (also UK) and it seems plenty of people are experiencing this. This is the North London sorting office but I wouldn't be surprised if others had a similar backlog.

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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