Current Projects chat and miscellany

Oh and most importantly, it'll be getting 2x Blackburn Chicane cages.

23mm

!

Blackburn Chicane

I cracked mine, not impressed, king is better

So this bike belongs to a surgeon my wife works with. She bought it new in the early 70s. I looked up the serial # and someone had a database with associated serials and years purchased. Found one 7 digits later purchased in 71.

The owner wants it re-painted and returned to glory. It looks like it may be fully chromed, may strip the paint first to see what’s underneath.

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Good start, agree on putting a nicer seatpost on. The little used Kinlin/Bitex wheelset on my CAAD9 might be available soon and would look nice on this if of interest?

I know! What year is it? The Michelins on there were on offer, half the price if I went 23c over 25+. Only ridden in the dry but so far they're great.

Oh really? The chicanes were cheap af and I think they look alright. If I have any trouble with them I'll switch to King.

@jono84 thanks for the offer but I really need to be sensible with money for a while. I really shouldn't have bought a new frame and definitely can't stretch to new wheels for now!

Well when you decide it's too much of a financial burden you know who to call!

Ha ha, I tend to hold on to bikes for a fair while but will keep you in mind if I decide to sell. I'm down to 2 bikes now, this and my sweet Donohue fixeh so I imagine this will get a fair bit of use!

Dos anyone have any input about the lacing pattern for my Raleigh 20 project's wheels?

I've got the rims and hubs ready, I just need to decide on 2x or 3x so I can order spokes. The front is a NOS shallow rim on a 36h LX rim brake hub and the rear is a Halo EX3 32h BMX race rim on a System EX flip/flop hub. I'm leaning towards 2x simply on the assumption that the at will be plenty strong enough on a 20" wheel. I've never built a 2x wheel but it's not exactly rocket surgery compared to a 3x is it?

I’d go 2x

32H 3X on a 406 rim with a LF hub is almost perfectly tangential*. 2X will work just fine, but why waste the opportunity to be within a couple of degrees of geometric perfection? 🙂

*176° between adjacent push/pull spoke pairs base on 62mm flange PCD and 376mm ERD

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One road bike, one fixeh, trying really hard to achieve this!

Just picked up this 1994 Cannondale T1000 in the awesome Icelandic green colorway for €35. It has a lot of corrosion on the downtube, bit more corrosion on chainstays and other parts. The fork is rusty, 4 out of 6 bottlecage bolts are stuck and parts of the plastic cable guides are rattling in the frame.

Don't really know if I should invest time and money in building it up to a ratty neo-retro touring/commuter.

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Dreamframe

Yessss these are awesome

There really is a lot of corrosion on the downtube around the 2 bottlecage bolts. Ideally this needs a full strip and respray if you want to do it right.

For now, I need to find someone who can extend the steerer so I can run a threadless ahead setup. Also scrape the paint off the problem areas, clean the alu, give it a coat of something and leave it like that.

This just Arrived. Tom Board 531 Frame. (http://www.classicrendezvous.com/British_isles/Board_Tom.htm)

Paint's a bit thick but overall looks to be a very nicely built frame. I Love the seat stay lug work

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Going to built it up with Chorus 10 speed, some of the are bits already here...

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Really like the frame. Is the paint really that bad? Doesn't look like it on the pictures.

I vote for quill stem. Looks amazing on those old Cdale frames.

That is as good an argument as I've seen, although it's a 420 ERD for the rear. The front is 437 ERD on 38mm flange.

Think I'll go 2x on the 36 h and 3x on the 32.

Seconded re quill

I've just been trying to fit a different bottom bracket into my Tom Board frame, but have discovered a problem- it would appear the diameter of the Bottom bracket shell is too wide by a mm or 2- 35mm diameter it would appear, and the new bottom bracket threads won't engage or tighten. The is so loose it wiggled past the threads and is not a bit stuck in the middle, but no hope of fitting the bottom bracket as is at all tight enough in there

.I'm looking too run a Campag Chorus 10 speed set up, with takes a square taper bottom bracket. Cannot work out why the shell would be too wide-and if I can resolve this issues at all?

The shell is nervex it seems, so pretty old, but the threads look good so don't think they are worn or anything, (although they could have been re-cut I suppose?)