Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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As Samuel Pepys wrote:
'Show me a wheelbuilder that be famined of belly and I will show you a poor wheelbuilder'.

Wonders where to find emoji showing socially distanced elbow bump?

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The measurement of wheel diameter doesn't include the tyre right?

Think it depends on what measurement standard you’re using- but if it’s etrto then no, it doesn’t include the tyre

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This page is your friend: https://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math

a 24in wheel with a 2.0 tyre on it is ~ as a 26in wheel with a 1.75.

I'm also sure someone nearby will have an old 26in wheel knocking about somewhere you can borrow.

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is it possible to replace DA9000 C24 hubs to anything - the straight spoke ones. And if so, do they take regular Sapim CX Ray spokes?

Do you want to keep the hubs but change the rims, and if necessary the spokes? Straight pull CX-Rays will fit. They fit even better if you flatten the round ends but that's not necessary. Finding replacement rims is tricky due to the low spoke count on the front, but I've managed to source 16 spoke XR31T rims so they are out there.

Thank you

I’ve got a halo white line / kinlin ADHN rim, polished silver 32h.

Seems like it was damaged somehow as there is a ridge at the rim join on the brake track, and it was rather difficult to get it round and true...

Other than that it’s brand new. Does anyone want it before I chuck it out?

Does anyone here sell Novatec Type A freehubs 11spd? Just wanted to check before ordering from AliExpress.

I have a client at the moment who needs a similar job done. He only has the hubs but wants them laced to Halo rims. I've done the rim swap a couple of times before using Cole C24 rims which were pretty much a perfect match in terms of ERD and being able to re-use the spokes. Client provided them though, so not sure where to get them. If you search you often get Evans cycles in the results as they may have sold them in the past.

Saw a few people dibsing a tension meter when one went up for sale the other day (I missed out).

Planet X has got one in for £30 again. Seems acceptable for the home wheelbuilder for (relative) spoke tensions, after a bit of mucking about with it on one of my wheels. More quantifiable than the "ping and tune" method with which I "successfully" built 10 wheels, at any rate.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/TOJOBSTM/jobsworth-spoke-tension-meter

Good price. Probably would have gone for that but have just bought a Super B one for just a little more from some random website.

Good price. Looks suspiciously like the Park one that ive used for 30+ wheels

Looks suspiciously like the Park one

If you're going to do a knock-off, you might as well knock-off the most popular brand.

I ha e a spreadsheet to do it.

The maths dawned on me one night when I sat down to work it out.

I modified spocalc and it works. If any one wants it mail me.

For 1x use 1.5x, 2x use 2.5x and 3x lacing use 3.5x in the spreadsheet. You need to know the centre of spoke hole to hub centre line offset though. This is hard to measure so has to come from the hub manufacturer.

Yes I do. Got them in steel, shimano,campag xdr as well.

Not worth it imho. It's not a job I ever want to do. The spoke semi fitting is the first problem. The wheel ending up 100g heavier is another.

Just because it is possible to do does not make it worth while.

Also for the rear wheel cxraysare too thin. With the kinlin xr31t rim even if cx sprints are used brake rub will be an issue. The spoke count is simply not high enough to stop the rim hitting the pads when out of the saddle.

If you want wheels that can be rebuilt get a wheel builder to build them.

I bought one from your website a few hours ago!

Hi All, just completed my second wheel build. Was a lot easier than the first one (that took me about three attempts from scratch!). This one took a couple of hours but I managed to do it first time, or so I thought.. Completed the final tensioning, all spokes pretty evenly tensioned and when I took the wheel off the stand it's out of dish. I did check the dish a few times earlier on until the slack was taken up, I don't know how it got out . Should I be checking it through the whole process right up to the end ?

Am I able adjust the dish without de -tensioning all the spokes significantly ? Im guessing I'll have to back it off some as it's at the recommended tension for the rim.

It's a front wheel, as the spokes are all within one marking on my Park tension meter (9 kgf) I'm surprised I didn't see a bigger consistent imbalance on one side since it's not centered. Or do I need to be more accurate ?

Thanks