-
• #126527
I had a big cassette when i first put gears on it and didn't need it at all. The SLX stuff was free otherwise i would have a road mech, even this 32t is a bit pointless
-
• #126528
Didn't you sell your fancy Reynolds Assaults from your Van Tuyl buddy?
I don't ever sell anything. Got tired of the umpteenth broken spoke, plus the brake tracks were finished (got them second hand). Reality is not as glamorous as what you see on LFGSS, I'm afraid.
-
• #126529
Reality is not as glamorous as what you see
Now you're just preaching to the choir man, social media in general is just depressing
-
• #126530
Consider getting rid of that instead of awesome bikes. ;) Not LFGSS though of course; this is toootally different.
-
• #126532
Think the originals were 435mm A-C w/ 55mm offset so decidedly non-suspension corrected. 80mm would be better than 100mm but might be still too high (+30mm even at 30% sag - 465mm)
-
• #126533
Sick!!
-
• #126535
Anyone got any tips for a SG75 bottom bracket install? I'm really struggling to get it 'just right' it's either slightly too tight - getting tighter over time, or too loose, where eventually I can feel some play between the bearings and spindle! It's really doing my nut in!
Considering calling it quits and getting a sealed cartridge bb if I can find an ISO one in the right size.
-
• #126536
I think the general consensus is to have loose ball bearing bb's very slightly loose. Maybe you are over tightening the lockring? It takes me about 4/5 goes to get it the way I want it.
Tbh since getting a sealed bearing hope ti bb on one of my bikes I wouldn't go back to loose unless it was "period correct".
-
• #126537
I can feel some play
For most* cycling purposes, you should be able to feel some play but not see it. Your fingers are much more sensitive than your eyes. You can feel, and probably hear, about 10μm radial clearance, which is about what the common deep groove cartridges of that size in "sealed-bearing" BBs will be.
*Headsest are preloaded slightly to avoid the clearance in the upper bearing opening up too much once the large axial service load is applied.
-
• #126538
You could always use some red loctite and keep it just slightly on the lose side.
-
• #126539
Unless you are in keirin, don't use them and use a sealed unit instead.
-
• #126540
Will look into some sealed options. I don't mind bike maintenance, but fettling with a BB every month or 2 is a right pain.
Is there an obvious/ ubiquitous combination for SG75's used on the street?
-
• #126541
111mm Campag Centaur works perfectly.
-
• #126542
109mm iso tange too
-
• #126543
does that not throw chainline off? I guess it's only 2mm?
-
• #126544
1mm, since the axle is symmetrical. If you're sure anything else on your bike's rear end is tracked to that precision, I want to see your surface plate 🙂
-
• #126545
yep, done many quiet-chain-miles with that combo
-
• #126546
of course it is... cheers @umop3pisdn
-
• #126547
Yet another BB tool of course now. 🤬
-
• #126548
I find that I get a 42mm chainline with it, at least within the precision of my measuring tools (eyeballs)
-
• #126550
+1 for centaur. Although I find mine needs attention every six months as it tightens up a little for some reason. Chain runs silent on an alloy frame.
Didn't you sell your fancy Reynolds Assaults from your Van Tuyl buddy? I suspect that it has something to do with the same reasons. I'm not even sure I want to get rid of it. You know how it goes.